The Secret Books

Bass Fishing 101: How To Catch The Next Big One

2008-08-06T06:25:00.004-04:00

Learn the Basics

Master and Optimize
YOUR personal tangle
with one of nature’s
most worthy champions and opponents

Play the angler’s game of
condition, circumstance,
knowledge, opportunity and skill

Synergize and Strategize!

Shape YOUR OWN PERSONAL APPROACH
to catching Bass, AND THEN more, bigger, more often,
consistently and regardless of conditions, considerations,
and or interplay of other random factors

Plan to succeed… and YOU will.

This ‘how to’ guide, will help, give you background information,
handy tips and pointers to ponder, consider, try, master and
ENJOY!

Table of Contents

2008-08-06T06:15:00.001-04:00

Foreword - What are we fishing for again? The Target: 'Bass' defined

Introduction 9 - Knowing and Going where the fish are – Locating, Luring and Acquiring the target

The basics of Bass Fishing – An overview

Mistakes and Secrets to Bass Fishing

Styles and Specialty Bass Fishing Techniques

Final Thoughts: Summary and Conclusions

References And Other Handy Books On Bass Fishing

APPENDIX 1: Bass Fishing Glossary

Foreword - What Are We Fishing For Again? The Target: (‘Bass’) Defined

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Whatever the reason you had for picking up these pages, to learn more about fishing, and game fishing, specifically with an all-time angling favorite embedded in the aptly titled: Bass Fishing, 101: How To Catch The Next Big One, you are sure to find a quenching reprieve. Still your thirst for knowledge and any bass fishing pursuit, challenge or battle, you will or might face in your lifetime, right here. There is something for everyone in this book!

If your main interest, is improving your ability to catch Bass, increasing, (and maybe) even stacking the odds in your favor of succeeding time and again, every time, in this angling equation and any future expeditions you plan to undertake, then this book has something of value to offer you.

When you are on the hunt for Bass, knowing the basics is like the lifeblood of your strategy, bringing your chances alive with every cast!

ALSO, discover and develop YOUR OWN sportsman-like, angling style and character, while gradually building your appreciation and understanding of the great outdoors, as part of your fishing experience.

We present a practical approach to the intricacies and complexities involved in this popular sport. We hope that this is captured well by the short title: Bass Fishing 101: How to Catch the Next Big One.

Our focus, approach, aims and goals are simple – the basis and premise even simpler: learn the basics, get them right, consistently, with skill and mastery, and they will eventually lead you to catching all the Bass you can possibly want or handle!

We prefer to get right to the topic and elements of our discussion
– how to find and catch Bass! Basic yet detailed, the text is written in such a manner, that it can be put to use and work for you right away, without spending hours reading and wading through pages of information, you do not need.

Most published works and accomplished authors (many anglers themselves), depict Bass fishing as the ultimate angling experience and ‘The Bass’ (predator-hunter itself), as toughminded, unpredictable, with a strong survival instinct, great awareness, sensing/sensors, that make them the keen and effective hunters they are.

These fish benefit from natures’ gifts of powerful sight, hearing, vast speed, maneuverability and even jumping action moves, that will have you catch (pardon the pun), your breath… with awe, excitement and expectation that is! All of this makes it possible for the Bass to live up to its name and reputation, as one of the “extremes” of the gaming fish populations and every angler’s dream catch!

Part of the Percichthyidae family (also sub-classified into the genus Morone – considered a separate unit or branch (white, yellow, striped), they are widely distributed in temperate and tropical waters, sub-species to be found in fresh and saltwater. There are also the Australian bass (Acquaria novemaculeate), European sea bass (Dicentrarchus labrax).

Their food of choice/feed and natural diet includes small fish, crustaceans, worms and insects – some anglers have also had great success with live-bait, like eels and even frogs.

Then there are the black bass, collectively referred to and including our prized target – called by some to be the most sporting species in North America – the Centrarchidae family. (Largemouth and smallmouth bass, redeye, spotted, striped, black bass, Suwannee, Quadalupee).

Artificial baits have proven useful to most anglers. Live baits are best, but these fish can be tempted, teased and lured to strike with artificial ones such as spinners, spoons, crank-baits, surface plugs and plastic worms – more on this a little later. Knowing which to choose (and WHY), use, switch to in certain conditions, and how to optimize this art of allure, is a key basic element for every aspiring or great angler alike.

These fishes are all active predators, warming to natural baits and artificial lures. Most anglers would suggest spinning or trolling for freshwater fishing for Bass (larger species) and spinning or fly-fishing for the smaller species. Saltwater enthusiasts might also consider surfcasting, trolling or up-tide fishing.

Fishing for and catching Bass, in various waters across the globe, has a proud history and tradition. Most of us are too glad to get dabbling in and form part of it, whether from boat, shore, rocks or rocks, rivers, streams, lakes or oceans. We like to tell our mighty tales and contemplate how to change and modify, adapt and or create new techniques, approaches to hook smallmouth, large-mouth, speckled, spotted, striped and black bass. To each his own. You pick your favorite.

Knowing how to tell a smallmouth from a large-mouth bass, striped from spotted and so on, is a very basic skill most anglers master quickly. Looking specifically at size and physical features are good places to start. Train your eye to ‘spot the differences’, so to speak.

They differ in size, markings and dorsal fins for example. Their upper jaws are different in length and their dorsal fins are not the same. The large-mouth has a spiny dorsal fin, highest in the middle portion, with almost a distinct ‘break’, right before the second set of dorsal fins start. For our friends the small mouth bass, these fins are flatter, first and second are connected, with distinct scales at the base of the second set of dorsal fins.

Apart from knowing and telling your fish species apart, by sights and or physical characteristics, there are some general advice we can propose right upfront. Experiencing, treading lightly and honoring nature, the great outdoors, abiding by the anglers’ code (catch and release, licensing), environmental protection for generations of anglers (and women) to come, and the like are all vastly important in your angling endeavors.

Second, maintaining an overall alertness, what some call “reading the waters” (understanding the body of water, habitat to the fish, contour, depth, temperature, stratified levels etc.), being generally, as well as specifically ‘observant’, arming yourself with knowledge, skill and understanding of the fish, the species, the environment, and all other relevant factors to your fishing activity and undertakings – paramount for successful process and outcome.

Third, (and almost most importantly), remain adaptable, for change is a BIG part of this enjoyable outdoor activity. It is definitely not for the faint of heart or the impatient among us!

Table of Contents

Introduction - Knowing And Going Where The Bass Are

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Bass defined: A fighter, ever-elusive, choice game-fish, predator by nature and reputation, the one sought-after, prized hook, catch, reel-in and land, of many an aspiring angler.

How to catch Bass AND then catch more, larger bass, more often, in more places, with more consistency, having a pro-active plan and approach, stacking the odds in your favor to succeed, catching more fish and enjoying the process, is what this basic guide is all about.

The hunter becomes the hunted – learn how a small change in your paradigm, thinking and approach can lead to bass-angling success! Start thinking like the watery hunter, become and understand the bass as a hunter. Observe, learn, follow, study and use its natural habit, preferences, patterns, habits, prey and choice of food, in your angling-strategy, and you will have some interesting fish-tales to tell. (None of them tall tales of course, we hope!)… and yes, we may even learn something from the ones that get/got away!

So, without further ado, let us get our rods and reels going…

If you were told that, there is one particular species of fish that most would describe as tough-minded, smart, outwitting and elusively hard to catch, then it the Bass – in all its shapes, sizes, iterations and sub-classes.

It rings true, no matter what the context, body of water, special and or any situation or condition, regardless of secrets, tips, proven science, technique and intent in the world! Bass fishing is challenging and rewarding at the same time. To ensure hours of countless pleasure, follow the pointers (and add some of your own here too!) provided here, for Bass fishing 101 and be ready to hook the next big one… repeatedly, and actually be able to ENJOY it too!

There are various aspects, working in combination in the art and science, sport and pursuit that is Bass Fishing! Strategy and synergy, contribute to eventual, and (we will argue), consistent and repeatable success. Equipment, site, lure and skill, dawn and or dusk, shallow or deep waters, fresh/salt water, from boat or shore – it does not matter! There are secrets and techniques for each of them.

Novices, beginners, seasonal and seasoned anglers alike, are all welcome to flip through these pages to discover some magical, sought-after truths about bass fishing! In the end, it is as much about the process, enjoyment, understanding and appreciation, as it is about the fish!

Become an observant, student of nature itself, the Bass’ habits and patterns, whether using trolling, artificial and or live bait, fly-fishing, on ice, fresh and salt, deep and shallow waters, do so, using all to your advantage, as you undertake your own journey of the Bass!

Bass is by far the most widely distributed fish in North America – sometimes due to the convenience of our mobility and fast-paced society, geared for travel and transportation, Bass is within easy reach (for most within 1 days’ travel at most), Large-mouths, Small-mouths, striped, spotted, black bass etc. all await.

Ever heard of a smart fish that makes calculated, in-the-moment decisions? One whose survival instinct is so strong, that it snatches and at other times totally ignores and hangs around seemingly uninterested, only to strike/bite when least expected!

Well, that would be typical of our finned, scaly (pardon the pun), fish-friend, the ‘Bass’. For the purposes of this book, this species is and takes centre-stage –this is deliberate and intentional. Bass fishing is about exactly that the fish, The Bass. Tenacious, unpredictable and a challenge to most of us.

Various scientists have proven that Bass almost ‘calculate’ the amount of energy it will take them to go after the prey vs. the return. If this be true and verified, what are the implications for us anglers of promise? OUTSMARTING THEM of course! It is all in the basics, the strategies, battle plan, allure, tease and techniques we choose to use in this process. This will dictate and determine our success.

Table of Contents

The Basics Of Bass Fishing – An Overview

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Most, if not all of the so-called ‘insider’ secrets, tips and stories to tell of big hauls of Bass, all revolve, around a very simple basic rule – understanding the fish, (their life-cycles, feeding preferences, habits and patterns, habit and menu of choice, their nature, their relationship with the broader eco-system and position on the food-chain, timing it right. Also heeding your surroundings, your equipment (tools), having the know how and basics under your belt and finally optimizing (every!) opportunity…

In effect, you are going about, creating the most favorable angling process and outcome you can muster! Bass fishing is a passion, a science and an art form upon itself. It appeals to young and old, attracts anglers from all walks of life and both sides of the professional and amateur spectrum.

One key to bass fishing is, what we can easily refer to as, ‘predictable behavior’. Habits, patterns, life cycles, the natural rhythm that is life and nature – also applies to fish. This means that Bass exist within this natural reality. If you can capitalize on understanding it better, you will increase your chances of successful hooks/bites.

Seeking protective cover, foraging amongst rocks, stumps, weeds, at times on the prowl hunting for prey, other times just ‘lunching’ around casually, all seem to be part of The Bass feeding rituals and repertoire. Taking advantage and considering this when starting out and every time casting, will benefit you greatly.

Another is “competitive advantage”, The Bass has an “airtight sac” (breathing bladder), that is inflatable, which enables it to swim and thrive at different levels. A powerful tail helps with speed, agility and maneuverability. It can reach great depths.

Other factors like water clarity, time of day, subdued sunlight, water displacement and vibration sensing, noise sensitivity, all add to this fish’ cunning and ensuring that you scrutinize these clues, will increase your odds of hooking your next big one.

Unlocking for example how The Bass senses and prefers color and shade in the moment, can always also help anglers increase their effectiveness. The choice and type of lure, colors and movement, bait etc. can all contribute meaningfully to your attempts.

Where the fish are… everyone will have an answer, or at least their opinion/experience on what/where/when, even science. Nevertheless, sometimes it is as simple as understanding the habitat and those that live and thrive in it, to better interact

with and enjoy fishing in it – a type of exploring the depths, so to speak. For example: the temperature of the water and available oxygen, dictate moving patterns and disbursement of fish species. Feeding habits and preferences are distinct, falling more on the “looking alive” or live bait. Some quote smallmouth bass, as showing preference for crawfish and using that as a ‘sign’ of where these critters will be found, on the hunt for their favorite snack! Looking at stomach content of fish you have caught and kept (not part of the catch and release protocol/requirements), hold hidden clues about food of preference –whitefish, crawfish and others.

Having self-confidence, aptitude AND the right attitude when fishing for Bass is crucial. In this battle to outwit your opponent, you will need every tool and trick at your disposal to make a successful catch. Never get discouraged, feel beaten or worse quit for the yield has been slim to none at all – those days happen to every angler. Nature beats to its own drum, you have to discover and enjoy the rhythm you are so intricately part of.

Practice makes perfect – there is no silver bullet, quick-fish method for $9.99, that can guarantee you bites and more bass all the time, anytime. It DOES take hard work and commitment, persistence and rigor from the angler. There is more than routine at stake and play here. Some days will be predictably better than others. No matter what the conditions, process and outcome, on the day, put it all down to experience and lessons learned. Log and learn, share and grow, in your own understanding, confidence and toolkit, as an avid bass angler.

Another key trick, is actually NO TRICK AT ALL – we call it an “acquired skill”. It takes more of that hard work we mentioned before! Exact, fixed casting, requires target-precision practice, improving your ability to place the lure exactly where you would want it to be – let us call it ‘hitting the mark’. This is another crucial tactic and technique you can practice in the park or your living room – try using plugs and get better every time at consistently hitting your ‘target’ (and nothing else we hope!).

Becoming and being a proactive participant in the context and environment (and process), you are in, knowing when to move on, change something and or quit for the time-being (postponing the hunt or resting when required, planning your strategy for the next trip out), is what it is all about as well!

Habitual creatures of comfort, The Bass (as a species), are not so much different than modern man. Bearing this in mind will help you too as an angler. We like what we like, when and how we like it and normally want it on time, when it is there and ready, be safe, enjoy life and we crave comfort – food, shelter and well-being! Does this sound a lot different from our own needs and requirements? Not really! Well, that is one way of leveling the playing field. Understanding the basic necessities and niceties for these watery “creatures”, holds clues and advantage, for any and every angler.

Stimulus, pattern, routine, habit – predictors and hints – the ace up your sleeve when nothing else works! Learn and develop skills, to ‘read’ (quickly at a glance, observe and make a judgment), know instinctively what will come happen, next and why – figure out the pattern, stick with it and exploit it to your advantage and angling success. Meet the Bass where they are, in what they do, cater to their needs and you will be surprised at what meets you in the waters below!

Familiarity with the Bass’ favorite places to hang around is critical to success: Bottoms, stumps, trees , logs, weeds and plants, contours, structures, travel-routes, creeks, shallows/deeper passages, coves, channels, bluffs, banks and shorelines – all can be repetitive clues on habitual, predictable behavior of the bass. Most of the ‘experts’ came about their knowledge through reading, studying habits of their catch, in very similar fashion than what you are undertaking. Every time you get to know your fishy friends a little better, until you know instinctively where they will be and where their favorite spots are. Knowing and going where the fish are becomes demystified, but even more exciting, for it is now more than a hunch or random chance – it is a planned encounter where the watery predator, hunter par excellence, becomes the hunted!

Table of Contents

Tools Of The Trade: Tackle, Boats, Accessories, Lures And Baits (All About Plastics, Spinners, Crank And Others- Top-Water And Specialty Lures)

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Having the right equipment, knowing how to best use it, when and how, (also how not to use it and what it is not suitable for), can all help you in your bass fishing adventure.

The basics regarding rods, reels, line, hooks, weights, bobbers, sinkers, lures, sensors and other equipment (hats, vests, nets, scents, scissors etc.), gives you an appreciation for having the right tools for the task(s) at hand.

As a highly participatory and engaging sport, Bass fishing is simply almost unparalleled in the vast amount of styles and tools to use. From quiet streams, tranquil lakes to open sea and rushing rivers – there is something for everyone.

If you are looking for quick tips on the right equipment, most suited to your purpose and the techniques to master to catch bass in any conditions, might this next section enlighten and inspire you, as you delve right into the ‘utilities of the fishing trade’. Some tools of the bass fishing trade, we will be focusing on are:

Rods, Reels, Lines and Hooks

Tackle: Lures and Bait – live – artificial and, or, BUT YET…

Limited space does not permit large comparative explanations or ramblings on the merit of some tools above certain others. These debates are well known and well published in existing literature. We take a more practical approach and look at what you will actually need to hook your next big one, besides random chance and luck! We like to point out that picking the right equipment means a lot of different thing to different people. Each angler has his/her own interpretation of what that means, varying skill level, physical characteristics and strengths/weaknesses, so we will not profess knowing what is right for you. What we do offer are mere suggestions on which tools will stack the odds in your favor and help you enjoy preparing, rigging, baiting/hooking, retrieving and landing YOUR next BIG ONE! Ensuring that is does not join the droves of ‘the ones that got away’!

Even as you explore your surroundings and the wonder of fish species and their life cycles, patterns and behavior, experimenting, hands-on with your equipment and what is available to anglers today, is part of the exciting world of Bass fishing. From fish-finders, temperature gauges, sensors and more advanced technologies, to the art of preparing your lines and hooks, choosing the lures/bait most suited to your circumstance and purpose and more, adds to the excitement and enjoyment of the activity. Preparing yourself with knowledge on these, will boost your confidence and practicing often, will pay off in the long run as your expertise, exposure and angling mastery grows.

When it comes to equipment, the opinions are many and far between. Your condition, circumstance, purpose and goal will all figure into the final choice (oh, yes and do not forget the ever-present budget and affordability)!

Spinning or bait casting with artificial lures, fly-fishing, trolling with live-baits, are all options available to you, with specialist tools on hand to assist you make the most of it. Typically a 5.5 to 7 feet rod (spinning or bait casting), with a matching reel with six to ten pound line, fast taper, single action reel would serve you well. Weed-less hooks are a lifesaver in very dense cover or weeds.

Angling techniques and tackle keep refining, developing and almost takes on a life of its own for every angler. There is not really a one-size-fits-all approach. This personalized relationship with your equipment, might mean a basic rod to start with and then adding a couple for your different excursions and expeditions – your Bass journey has just started. Modern tackle and methods, traditional or innovative, technology-driven and enabled – whatever your fancy or preference – there is something for every taste and budget. It is an ancient sport, pursued by many, with echoes of early hunters and anglers living off the land. Getting in touch with that timeline through hands-on activity, like bass fishing is very rewarding. Most beginners might be overwhelmed by the selection of equipment available on the market today. Knowing what to pick/buy, how and when to (best)apply, use it correctly, to maximize your chances of catching your next big one is key.

Good quality tackle is important – it needs to be adequate for whatever nature throws your way. You will need to build your arsenal of knowledge and equipment over time, to respond best to some of the challenges at hand. Good appropriate baits and lures and how to use them effectively, in combination, in quick succession to ensure bites, are other key components, as is importance of preparing, presenting well, accurate casting, hooking (sharpening the hooks and turning them up slightly for example to ensure that the fish stay on your hook as you reel them in), as well as retrieving and landing of the fish.

An excellent source for beginners on all things tackle-related, equipment, fish species, tools and techniques, is to be found in The Dorling Kindersley Encyclopedia of Fishing: The complete guide to the fish, tackle and techniques of fresh and saltwater angling. Our intent and purpose here is not to restate the listed facts found here. Avid and serious anglers are readers and thirst knowledge that will increase their odds of success. This source we recommend for young and old! (There are also some other references listed at the end of this text, if you choose to pursue more facts and or crave deeper insights into the art and science of Bass fishing).

All we will say, is that having expensive or the right equipment, is not a guarantee that you will land the next big one! In fishing, there are no real guarantees. This is a ‘contract’ and activity between you and nature. Exploring and getting you to the point where you know the feel, function and embedded strengths and weaknesses of your equipment, is the real way to wisdom. For most trail and error, practice and persistence are the roads to follow to becoming well-versed and experienced anglers.

Realizing the equipments full potential, will take time and practice. Bear in mind, that sophistication in equipment will develop in parallel to your own mastery and skill-refinement.

Your intended style of fishing (from boat or shore, shallow or deep (or both) will dictate the most appropriate choice for tackle (reel and rod, line – thickness and weight), line, hooks, baits and lures, weights, sinkers, leaders and more.

Whether you are a salt-water fanatic that enjoys shore, beach, boat or big-game fishing or a freshwater guru, preferring lure, bait, pole and or fly fishing, there are rod, reels, line, hooks, leaders, links, bait, and landing tackle just right for you.

Basic angling techniques are relatively easy to master, yet conquering and refining all the subtleties and intricate moves and maneuvers, exploring the secrets (discovered or yet to be unearthed), of in this case bass fishing (which has so many iterations and settings), will take a lifetime of pleasure and defeat!

Practice and enjoy bass fishing, according to your own niche and style, preference and location of choice – in a word - YOUR ‘specialty’. It is a very personalized and individualized pursuit and passion. Always remember, that there is a wide array of variety and enjoyment on offer, by different kinds of fishing, locations, baits and lures etc., to keep angling interesting and a growing sport – it is contagious and pervasive – once let in, it is hard to let go! You are hooked and being reeled in by this sport and hobby before you know it.

For most anglers, technique (and choice of equipment) is dictated by the species sought, established practice, conditions and more. Mostly artificial lures are suggested and accepted for freshwater predatory fishing. Some prefer live bait, others have success with hard baits like artificial rats and plastic worms are another favorite.

Whether you are fishing from the banks, boat or float tube, most would suggest you use a six to six and a half foot (1.8 - 2m) medium, heavy-push-button, spinning or bait-casting rod and reel combination, with strong line (10-pound). If you are fishing in weeds, heavy cover, thick, slop, grassy wetlands, swamps, etc. a heavier line (braided), will serve you better/best. Hook sizes typically recommended around a # 4 live-bait hook, sharpened and turned up slightly (say around 10%), this is done to ensure that the fish stayed “hooked” and gives you a ‘fighting’ chance to reel it in and land it successfully. A weed-less, # 5 hook can also serve you well in these conditions. Large-mouth bass can be caught at any depth, using live baits, throughout most the year (even ice fishing)! Sharp hooks are key.

Weights and sinkers are another element you must consider, especially in dark, cloudy waters and or when fishing deep water specifically. There are also specialty sinkers, with rattles these days to entice the fish even more. They are very sensitive to sounds, noise and vibrations in the water – so anything you can do to create that allure, tease and temptation is great to bear in mind. Do everything you can to trigger their feeding response and ensure a strike/bite!

Also, remember, fish are a lot like us – on hot, humid days, they look for shelter, food and comfort. These are their handout and feeding ground (no different than us, wanting to sit under an umbrella, or in front on the TV, in an airconditioned environment, trying to stay cool and enjoy our snack-foods!). Knowing and considering these habits, will help you catch more fish. Look for the lily pads, think cover, giving them shade from the sun. Find the right depth, structure and hide-away(they normally look for cover, like any other predator) and their lighting-fast speed enabled them to cover water/ground quickly and really strike/attack/hit their “prey”. Weedy, shallow bays, hard-bottom flats, rocks, trees and or other structures, creeks, channels, deeper waters, drops, bluffs and more can all be part of their moving patterns and habitat, where they look for food. They also like being close to access point to deeper water. More later on their preferred spots and how to optimize these patterns.

Examples of luring techniques and how the right equipment can help you:

Surface, Top-water and or Buzz baits: Acting almost like a spinner bait, but with a flat blade that enables it to surface with speed, this is a popular choice for many a bass enthusiast.. It attracts the attention of the bass, by creating a disturbance along the surface like a minnow, triggering their basic feeding instincts and hunter impulse to strike. Rewarding you with a handsome catch!

Carolina Rig: this can easily be described as simply a variation of the standard, so-called ‘Texas Rig’ (see below), great for use with plastic worms or other soft bait. Most expert bass anglers suggest using a heavier weight like 1/2 -1oz or more. Slide the weight onto the line, follow with three plastic beads, a barrel swivel, and a leader line (somewhat smaller than the main line).What this allows the bass angler to do is to get the bait to ‘drop down’ to the floor with speed and is especially recommended for fishing deep waters. The movement of the leader allows the bait to swim and rise above the bottom, and fall slowly down. For most beginners this is easy to do and practice and is very versatile to get your routine rigging and tackle skills to improve.

Crank bait: mostly refers to lures, which is usually made from a variety of materials, including hard plastic or wood. With an added feature of a diving lip on the front (simulating effectively the movements of natural prey, wobbling, diving and swimming actions), entices the bass to strike. The rule of thumb, normally is that the larger the lip, the deeper it can dive. Enhancements like rattles are also good for certain conditions.

Jerk baits: A seasoned favorite amongst bass anglers, for topwater, as well as suspended bass fishing. longer minnowshaped plugs, available in lots of different sizes and colors. As a surface, top-water bait with a slight twitch-and-stop type of retrieve, or even as a more slow-and-steady retrieves underwater. Another option is to use suspending jerk baits that typically dive deeper, jerking it, almost teasing and tempting the bass to come up and bite right at it.

Jigs: Some have described these trusted tackle as ‘lead head and hook with dressing’. Their ‘added’ features could take the shape of rubber or plastic skirts, soft plastic baits for bodies, instead of skirts. Most bass experts combine them with a frog, or a plastic bait as a “follower’(plastic worm, crawfish).

Lipless Crank bait: mostly referring to sinking-type lures, made from plastic, sometimes with many rattles inside for noise, , vibrations and causing disturbances underwater.

Poppers: Top water lures that carry long-range punch. Retrieve with these kinds of lures are fast, jerky or move in one spot for a duration of time. Can be quite effective if you trying to figure out ‘where the fish are’.

Soft Jerk bait: these can be used to great effect in the same manner as a regular jerk bait, but can be dropped to the bottom quite successfully as well to tease out our deep-water predator, swimming around for food and feast.

Spinner baits: another simulator of movement and prey on thego. It is very similar to a jig, but with a blade that runs above the hook, and spins to imitate a bass favorite as well: fish.

Texas Rig: this is considered and named specifically for standard rigging with a plastic worm. Use a sliding weight, usually bullet shaped, and a hook sufficient for the size worm you have chosen. Sharpen the hook and stick the point of the hook directly into the worm head, bring it out the side about 1/8 - 3/16" below the entry, thread it again. Rotate the hook around so the point is facing the worm's body. Lay it over the side to see where it should enter in order to hang straight. Position the work straight onto the hook if it is hanging.

NOTE: if the worm is twisted, your line and action will pay the price and it will be less effective.

Walking- the-dog: this is an angling technique that usually requires some time to master, but beginners should not shy away from trying it, for it is quite effective with bass. Casting over a relatively long distance, allow the bait to sit for a brief period of time, take up the slack, and with your rod tip pointed at the water, give it a jerk to the side, then immediately move it backward and reel in any slack, then jerk again, and repeat all the way back. More or less a darting from side-to-side. You are in effect simulating the prey’s elusive movements, enticing the hunter to follow, stalk and hit! This might be your ace up your sleeve for hooking YOUR NEXT BIG ONE.

Slip-bobbers, rigged with a ¼ ounce plastic jig, live bait like minnow, night-crawler or leech at its tip and of course, all on a sharpened hook

Jiggling, lightly shaking, presenting this close to any emerging weeds or brush, underwater logs, trees, stumps or cover, may prove successful.

Remember that fish are constantly on the move while feeding. The timing of day, amount of sunlight, temperature of the water and more all feature into the angling equation.

Bobber-rigs or jigs are popular and quite successful too. Slipsinkers, Carolina (drop-shot rig) works well too. Free-line fishing in shallow waters may yield many a bass angler quite the haul. Casting a plain hook with live bait and feed the line to the bait, allowing it to ‘swim’ naturally will attract some certain attention. Other experts would recommend if you are in the so-called watery salad, weeds or heavy slop, cover and jungles underwater, to go heavier is the key. 20 lb line the minimum and heavy-action, sturdy baitcasting rod and reel combos with long, straight handles to provide you with leverage to reel your BIG ONES in!

Floating jig-heads, with slip-sinker rig, with 2-3 foot leader have proven to be useful too, especially when kept close to the bottom, watching not to get snagged in the process. Weed-less hooks can help you retrieve live-bait and or that hooked fish, through very think underbrush.

Again, understanding what bass actually eat, where and when, will help you with choosing and presenting the most effective, appropriate and tempting bait (whether live or artificial). Drawing on the natural diet of the fish, can assist you in improving your baits and lures appearance, strategy, tactics and eventual success. Bass, as a predator will be looking for certain shapes, colors and familiar movement. Plastic worms and crawfish are popular choices. Part of the reason bass is such a popular species to be fishing for, is they are notorious for hitting hard, biting solid and strong pulling or fighting – a strong game fish to be sure. They are known to put up a good fight.

Spinners or spoons are artificial baits that are specifically designed for the purpose of tantalizing the fish. It is meant to provoke, make a strike irresistible, calling on the fish natural instinct to feed and or defend. It optimizes your chances of securing strikes. Rotation, color, skirts, fluttering action (Lil’ hustler spoiler is a favorite of many bass anglers) all work together to simulate movement and prey on the move.

Spoons act/move in a fishlike manner in the water, trolled behind boats they are typically very effective and can also be cast and retrieved. Plugs are made of various materials, designed specifically to float, dive below the surface or sink when reeling them back or in. They simulate surface disturbance and entice fish with propellers or plastic skirts that move and flutter in the water.

Artificial lures can be utilized alone or in combination with live or natural baits. The size and type of lure will depend on the species, location and style of fishing you prefer, choose to pursue. (for example trolling, spinning, fly-fishing).

For bass fishing particularly, a couple of suggestions are to bear in mind that enticing the predators from below, takes skill, practice and patience. For matted weed-beds and sloppy pitches, you might have to tickle the surface a bit. When fishing in shallow waters, lures cast out fast and retrieved slowly shaking it along, might trigger a response. It is all in the tease and promise to the fish that look for signs of movement in the water. Having a handy pair of Polaroid sunglasses are a MUST! Keep on moving the bait around and play with the presentation – it is an art, acquired skill that gets better over time. When casting the bait out, try not to spook the fish, remembering that they are sensitive to sound/noise, movement and vibrations. Plastic worms work well (around 10”). Being adaptable, switching baits, different color etc., using a strong Texas rig for example, hooking up a worm near the bottom of the hook, sliding it onto the shank, popping it through, with a ½ ounce weight might be all you need!

Having a second rod set up and ready to go or fishing with a buddy that can help you to respond quickly (as the fish are always on the move) and when they are ready to hit, you are prepared for them! Others suggest using braided line that is stronger than mono (for when fishing in weedy areas), with no stretch that can minimize entanglement and optimize your chances of retrieval through think weeds and cover.

Stiff rods that can withstand the “fight” bass can typically put up are another base-requirement for bass fishing enthusiasts. Protecting your rods with rod wraps, to avoid dings and scrapes can also maximize not only its efficiency, but keep your angling investment in good condition! Shaking and popping along bait/lures, create a situation that lets the fish think the “prey” is getting away.

However, the right equipment, bait, hooks and location is not enough! Some basic angling techniques are required, setting up your rod and reel, knowing the basics about tying knots for joining line to tackle, forming loops and more. Tying a secure knot is the main thing here, as every one could pose a ‘weakness’, which you do not need, when you have the BIG ONE hooked! Some suggest before tightening a knot, to wet it with some water and trim all edges and loose ends, to avoid snag/drag.

Gulp-sinking minnows cast out fast and far, allowing to let it fall and dangle, quiver down, with lots of slack, might prove just what the fish ordered!

Tube-jigs, gulp-tubes that are scented, are other options. The soft, natural-chewy substance, tricks the fish, into not wanting to let go and have another chew, thus increasing your odds of landing it safely.

Top-water baits with rattles are another all-time favorite, with slack in the line, walking-the-dog (flipping) makes for an enticing presentation for the fish.

Having a spinner-bait with some red in it, simulates blood or wounded prey to our underwater predator, triggering yet again their natural instincts and feeding response, increasing your odds of getting a bite, hit or strike.

Whether you find yourself in a jet-boat or flat-bottom bass boat, shore, rocks, beach, cliff, stream, river, stream, lake, reservoir, or other body of water, strong rods, hot hands, good tackle, appropriate preparation, the right bait and presentation, accurate casting, where you know the fish might be/move/feed naturally, fishing for structure and pattern, keeping an eye on surroundings and conditions, can all make those fleeting moments of anticipation and elation at first strike momentous! The fights, flights, flips, turns and jumps, attacks and hard hits, struggles, retrieval and landing of bass, is what keeps us coming back!

Let us now turn to take a look at what other considerations, plan of attack, angling techniques, secrets, mistakes and specialty circumstances, can teach us about the enjoyable art and activity, that is bass fishing!

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Water, Weather, Timing And Other Environmental Aspect, Facets And Considerations For Bass Fishing

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As mentioned throughout this text so far, there are numerous factors that we often do not consider, and or dismiss, when we first start out, angling for bass. These would include, consideration of:

Water stratification and depths (bass are found at varying levels and knowing where (at which level), to fish for them is paramount); shallow or deep, sometimes both As far as water temperatures goes, during a yearly/seasonal cycle, waters move, turn and gets re-oxygenized. As temperatures fall, from deep below and throughout ice forms, floats to the surface, melts and moves down again. Science has provided us with enough evidence that THREE distinct layers from in a body of water – say a lake for example. Deeper/colder, Middle-ground/milder – transitional layer and the top/surface/warmer waters. Heeding these levels and varying temperatures, and looking oxygen-rich spots are all factors to consider even before heading out. Think the process through. Think like the fish would – ask yourself, where would you go in all likelihood, if you were faced with the same situation – the answer will mostly lead you to where the fish most likely ARE!

A temperature gauge and depth meter can all prepare you better, as an angler, knowledgeable and prepared, to assess the environment, better understand it, learn from it, and use the information you gather and have on hand, due to these readings and instruments, to KNOW or best judge, where the fish will be at! Depth is a great indicator of what the bass are up to and where they will be most likely found. This will dictate your approach, tackle and how you execute your angling skills to land THE NEXT BIG ONE! If you fish at the right level, understanding why the fish are there, on the move, feeding etc., you will increase your odds drastically of getting strikes and hooking your next big catch. It might even be a trophy! The depth is related to water temperature and the optimal comfort zone of the bass – always ask yourself, what they would prefer on a day like today and then go fish there. Measure with temperature, depth sensors, GPS etc. to establish the ‘pattern’ and depth of the day.
Temperature – optimal and changing Most bass species prefer a temperate climate –their metabolism is influenced, if not governed pretty much by the surrounding waters they find themselves in. They can also tolerate quite a wide range of temperatures, therefore we can fish pretty much throughout the year. (60-75 degrees Fahrenheit)/ It is also less widely known that ice-fishermen hook bass at around 32-39.2 degree water temperatures, in deeper waters! When it does get colder, they get somewhat more sluggish, as their environment cools down significantly and bearing this in mind will yield and improve your catch.

Oxygen is also very important to fish. The hotter it gets, the closer they will stay to shore, and to plant-life, which produces oxygen and or where they might catch the occasional breeze. Reading these signals nature provides right, will prepare any angler better to go where the fish are and hook your next BIG ONE. Also look for spots that are not too stagnant and filled with decaying plants, as this might be an oxygen-deprived area with not a large concentration of fish – they need to ‘breathe’ to stay alive too!

Water conditions: Clarity Clear and or murky – you will find bass in both! Their behavior and mode of attack will change as they plan how to best expend their energies in the hunt for food, survival etc. Predators by design, they prefer cover and structure and deeper waters. When spawning, ) or on very hot days, you will most likely, find them more in the shallows. Bass always have a ‘back-door’ access to deeper waters. These facts should be able to point you in the general vicinity of where the fish are quite aptly. The male bass is also very protective of the nest/spawn site and will defend it, strike at any perceived threat or intruder. Fishing is no more left up to random, contemplative, reflective trail and error casting. Now, today, replaced with more a more driven, focused, thoughtthrough, rationalized and analytical competitive approach, that tries to understand habits, patterns, environment, conditions, time of year etc. at times relying on the aid of technology and devices to assist and better your changes of spotting, finding, hooking, retrieving and landing the fish successfully (mostly in deeper waters!). Therefore, it the waters are clear, head for deeper waters as a general rule of thumb.

Noise/Disturbances/Vibrations DO NOT DISTURB signs are hard to post in the water! Always remember that there is some truth to not chasing the fish away and being somewhat careful and quiet around them. The bass particularly uses its whole body as a sounding board. Any surface disturbance, water movement and or displacement will attract their attention – this can in fact both help and or hurt your angling hopes and dream.

Rusty, squeaky oars, noisy motors and even the sound of a fast, far cast may interfere and or get their attention. Being aware of any, movement, spotting fish so to speak in their environment, things (water, plants) moving around, can be good indicators. Wearing a good pair of Polaroid sunglasses may also help you ‘see’ better in the bright sunlight and glare, reflections off the surface of the water(s).

Color, Sunlight, Time of day Most bass anglers propose dawn and duck to be the best feeding time for the bass – not the height of day or when the sun is at it brightest and the water maybe a degree or two too warm for our fishy friends and when they head for the deep and or cover. It is a matter of appealing to their natural instincts.

They are keen observers and movement and color have been researched in the bass species. Picking presentation of bait, lure that is closest to live or alive bait, resembles their prey, in other words, will maximize your chances of catching more bass. This does not mean that they will not strike at night for example or at other times during the day – you might just have to adapt and use some specialist techniques to lure them out of hiding a bit!

Time of year: Seasons and things are a changing! Surroundings, weather and angling rules change and keep changing. The stage and players do not remain the same and even on the same day, day to day, things will vary. This variety (the spice of life most say) is what keeps most of us guessing, adapting, changing strategy, bait, depth etc. all in the continued hope and pursuit of catching the NEXT BIG ONE.

As to the best time to catch bass – opinions vary greatly on this topic. In some areas, fishing is only allowed after spawning. Spring, summer and fall (with fall being the best for most bigger fish) and even winter some form of bass fishing is available to you, depending on where you are, what the weather conditions are like and what type of year the bass are having (spawning success, health of the body of water they live and thrive in, the eco-system, stocking, pollution etc.)

Even ice fishing is possible (more about this under specialty fishing closer to the end of the text). As pointed out earlier, weather affects behavior and the season and type of water, might all require different approach, equipment and bait and lures/preparation AND presentation.

As an angler, avid bass angler, this will not faze you in any way! On the contrary, it provides you with the opportunity to shift gears, change strategy, tools, refine skills, learn more about your opponent and its habits. By being alert, aware and observant, you will learn a lot about the fish – it is no longer a passive sport! Windy, low and or high air pressure, water temperature, choppy waves and or surface movement of the water, cloudy skies, with lots of cloud cover, masking the sun, could dictate whether fish will be biting or not, color of plastic worms might be adjusted from blue (on bright days), to black (on cloudy days with not a lot of sun around). Modifying your fishing techniques and adapting to weather patterns, even adjusting your bait/lures, strategy, all bear witness of an alert bass master!

Bass are also sensitive to very bright sunlight, so then you might find them looking for some shady cover and or cooler waters. That knowledge will prepare you well for where to go and look for them. Increasing your odds of finding them too!

Predatory Nature and creatures of habit – what the fish themselves tell us (or not!)

There predators of the deep are rich in their life cycles, habits and patters. It is their nature after-all. They are somewhat predictable. As hunters, they do certain things, instinctively and as anglers, we capitalize on it. There are lots of facts about the species, worth knowing and key to understanding – the secret to unlocking the success of bass fishing. Thinking like a hunter ourselves and at times like the fish, can increase your odds and success significantly. Being one with nature and its intricate patterns, behavior, balance and quirkiness, allow fisherman to be skilled, precise, well prepared and more successful, rather than leaving it up to eventuality and random chance to secure a bite!

Preferred habitat and fishing structures One author likens contour and topographic maps to bass fishermen, like treasure maps to pirates once were. Lines show elevation, depth etc. Get an idea of what the ‘floor’ or bottom of the body of water (like a lake for instance) would look like – it is rarely flat, often characterized by rises and humps, slopes and drop-offs.

Slopes and access-points into deeper water should also yield more frequent, larger hauls and more strikes, as bass prefer to have access to deeper waters and are constantly on the move, hunting and feeding and or defending territory.

Natural Diet and Menu – the art of enticing fish: creating the right atmosphere/conditions/allure for a strike Lots have already been said about this topic.

Self-confidence The belief in your ability to locate and catch the various bass species, is by far the best tool of the trade to foster and develop over time. This cannot be purchased and is the personal call to every fisherman, to include in his/her tacklebox!

Whether you choose to use spinners, or swear by plastic worms, crawfish and other live bait, chum or have a favorite lure for reasons and or secrets that are your very own, you use what works the best and what you believe will produce the bass you want, desire and must have! Positive attitude goes a long way when learning how to fish for bass. Profiting from ongoing experience, success and failure, your angling and odds will keep improving. Practice in this case, will go a long way to enable success in this unpredictable, varying situation – when you are one-on-one with the most popular game and sporting fish of them all: The Bass itself!

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Techniques For Bass Fishing Like A Pro (Worms, Skipping, Ripping, Drift Trolling, Flyrodding)

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The art of accurate casting

Mastering basic casting is key. Most spinning and bait-casting reel and rod combinations today, are made for hassle-free, ease-ofuse flexibility by a variety of anglers (multi-level at that too!)

Try to eliminate errors from your basic style and technique. Skill and accuracy should matter more than strength and it is not always about getting it as far out, as fast as you possibly can (although this might be important in certain situations and circumstances too!)

Casting, getting your line/hook/bait, sinkers, weights and leaders in and into the water, at the exact right depth, imitating ‘prey’, and doing so with extreme, pin-point accuracy, is what this is all about. Hitting your target with confidence is a very basic skill to master and refine. Getting the hook out to exactly where you wanted it to be, what you should practice and work for.

Casting is one part of this process, getting the lure to the right depth quite another. Advanced bass anglers suggest using a countdown OR counting method. Quite simple really. Form the moment the bait hits the water, start counting, 1000, 1000 and 1, 1000 and 2, 1000 and 3… estimating the seconds it will take for it to ‘drop’ into the water. This will help you know better what you are doing, when it hits the bottom for example, whether or not it got caught on something in the process etc. YOU establish reference points for yourself on and in the water.

Hands-on and rod in-hand is the best way. Practice-plugs in the park, or your own backyard (be it on ‘dry land’, so to speak), will make you that more effective and accurate, in and on the water, no matter what the body of water, or style of fishing you choose to pursue. Whether spinning, bait casing or fly-rodding, there is something for every taste. Even missed targets, attempts and failure, are also good teachers, as this technique is somewhat of a routine you can master and learn.

Casting a lure with a spinning reel for example, casting float and or leger rig, bait casting are very similar. Lure fishing, spinning, floating, spoons, plugs, surface or top-water lures, crank bait, trolling etc. are all basic techniques that require exposure, quick demos and hands-on practice. We suggest a video or DVD, or online in-depth explanation, watching a fishing show or two and getting pointers from other anglers and professionals, as well as finding and defining your own style that you are comfortable and successful with. The beauty of bass fishing, is that it offers something for everyone, no matter what your prior experience with fishing might be!

Focusing on your grip, spinning reels, bait-casters and or closedface spin casters techniques and mastery, picking a target, aiming to land your lure (terminal tackle) in the middle of that target, is a good approach.

As a general rule of thumb, a good arch in the air as a travel path en route to the water, is a good reference and goals to have, as you set out to improve your casting technique and accuracy. Line-control is crucial to avoid overshooting, get a gentler landing, slow flight (by touching the lip of the spool with the tip of your index finger (also known to anglers as ‘feathering’) is useful.

Playing and landing fish

Getting to know the feel of a fish on your hook, line and rod is very important. Retrieval is about more than simply getting the fish into the eager hands/net/boat. Mastery, maneuvering, responsiveness, knowledge of your tackle, well-balanced control, reel-clutching, fighting curves and arching/bending rods and the various controls and settings, techniques (including casting, hooking, playing, reeling in, retrieving and landing is important. They are so much more than mere steps in a process and or sumtotal of parts. To translate into a true blue-blood bass-fishing experience and success, appreciation of the symphony of the interplay of process and outcome, tactic, technique, angler, equipment, the catch and haul is what is at play here. When using a spinning reel/bait-casting, there are three key techniques to master that would include reel control: with anti-reverse on, back winding (anti-reverse off) and thumb-pressure control

There is nothing more exciting than a fish on the run, apply pressure, keep the rod up slightly and increase the ‘drag’ if required, using one of the techniques above. Watch tension and avoid line-breaks and allow the fish to tire.

It is one thing to prepare, cast, tease and tempt, hook and eventually reel in. The process however does not stop there. More of the basic technique mastery includes methods of landing fish, like beaching (not suitable for catch and release), tailing (not suited for all species), lipping (watch the teethed species here!), netting or even gaffing (banned in most areas, due to the risk of the stroke injuring the fish).

The most useful tip we can provide or suggest, is remaining in control, alert and not upset or startle the fish even more. Allow the tired fish to turn, submerge the net and avoid lunging at it.

When lipping, grip the lower lip gently between your thumb and forefingers, unhook carefully or hold in the water while freeing it gently, but efficiently, without hurting the fish, adhering as far as possible, to current and accepted, catch-and-release practices.

Lure-fishing and spinning

Spinning tackle and artificial baits and lures are increasing in popularity and the most popular form of fishing worldwide. As far as bass fishing is concerned, one of the easiest way to attract the species – even for novices and beginner anglers of all ages and fishing style and skill-levels. Rotation, color and movement, staying as true as you can to the natural diet and target prey of the bass will optimize your chances. The shape and thickness of the spinning ‘blade’ on the lure affects the action and mobility of the lure – how it responds and acts in and under water.

Floating lures are also common and effective especially for deepwater bass fishing. Watch for snagging on the bottom and ensure to weigh it done appropriately using suitable weights. This method ensures getting the bait at eye-level of the fish.

For spoons, there are two broad categories, namely trolling and casting spoons. Weed-less lures mostly have hooks with nylon or metal weed-guards that prevent snagging and or non-weedless spoons are also commonly used. How to tell which one to use, most bass anglers look for shape, weight and speed. The best way to find your way around in any tackle shop or box, is to practice and get to know the behavior and or success in different conditions. Trying to get to know the optimum retrieval and success rates, maybe even logging it in a personal journal as you undertake your bass journey/hunt for the NEXT BIG ONE!

Plugs, surface lures, useful at all fishing levels, at all speeds make these lures versatile, agile and an all-time favorite of many a bass angler. Matching the lure to the conditions you face and the circumstance, body of water and specific species you are fishing for (small-mouth, large-mouth, striped, spotted, rock, yellow, black, white etc.). Shallow-diving crank-bait and or surface or top-water lures have proven themselves most effective for bass fishing – great for fishing shallows. Stick-baits and jerking, minnow plugs (or the real thing!), prop-baits, surface disturbers, crawler-type top-water baits and even a floating, driving crank-bait can prove useful.

The true secret lies in what some call the ‘one-two punch’ – teasing and enticing with a top-water or teaser (surface disturber) and then following it up with a plastic worm for example on a second rod, for optimizing strikes and yet again tipping the scales in your favor.

Plastic worms

There are a vast array of worms available on the market (bothlive bait and artificial). For avid bass anglers they are a necessity. The technique to master is hooking them properly. When hooking a worm for bass fishing, it is of utmost importance to ensure that you thread it properly. Get a lot of the body onto the hook, hooking it twice, at top and bottom. This is to ensure that it does not fly loose when you are casting it out into the water. It also protects it somewhat in the submerged paradise that the bass shares with other fish, who might want to come and take a bite or sample! Using worms in combination with other baits/lures and enticing techniques like top-water and or hard-bait surface disturbers or frogs, eels or whatever species and body of water would deem appropriate “feeding prey” for the bass of your choice and preference is the key. Again adapting your strategy when necessary and giving the bass a variety of foods to choose from, will all hopefully increase you odds of hooking your next bass! … even if it is not yet the BIG ONE!

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Mistakes And Secrets Related to Bass Fishing

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As we have discovered throughout these pages, there is a lot more the bass fishing than meets the eye. Once you are familiar with the species, different bodies of water, different and sophisticated fishing and angling equipment and accessories, as well as familiarizing yourself with habits, patterns and nature, behavior, natural diet and preferred foods, mastering some basic skills like preparation, presentation, tackle, bait and lures, casting accuracy, knots, hooks and the intricacies and complexities in retrieval and landing, the journey has but started. There is so much more to explore and learn about an through the activity, sport, art and competitive science that is bass fishing, that we can almost say no more than the water await and let’s go!

Although, there are some last thoughts we can offer on some of the more common casting mistakes. These ‘errors’ are welldocumented in existing literature and easily overcome, to optimize your bass fishing experience and haul. Here are but a few issues most beginners struggle with:

(i)overshot lure with too much power in the initial cast and the line release not slowed, or (ii) the lure falling short or being too light, with the line being release too early during the cast and or the rod held too high after the line was released. (iii) lure landing too hard, due to the release at too low of an angle and not arching enough in the air , and (iv) inaccurate casting (the most common) – missing the mark, where the lure goes off-course with too much side-to-side action/motioning of the rod while casting. Practicing reel and line control, as well as the overhead cast might help.

Lots of texts (like the Dorling Encyclopedia mentioned earlier, pg. 212-213), suggests thinking of ‘casting’, compared to the movement of the arms on a clock-face, beginning in the two o’clock position, pushing back to around the noon-position and back to the 2 again, with the rod slightly lowered as the lure drops deeper into the water. For most beginners this ‘visualization’ often helps refine technique.

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Styles And Specialty Bass Fishing

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Skipping

This technique might remind you a lot of throwing rocks onto the surface of the water to see it ‘skip’. As a water/top-water disturbance and movement simulator, it triggers and teases our predator to come up and see what is there to eat/attack.

Spinning rods and reel combo is best used for this technique – perfect for fishing and reaching bass where they swim and hide under piers, docks and pontoons. Also useful for getting under and into underbrush and growth. Remember their ‘comfort zone’. On sunny days, bass look for shade, food and shelter and often rest here in shady areas, under cover of structure.

Ripping

Some call this the throw it out, twitch, jerk and go method. A medium-action rod with parabolic bend and action to it. If might actually trick our bass-friend into thinking there is a ‘wounded’ prey around. Like a pro, let the worm drop and settle to the bottom, remaining there for a period of time. Reel some slack out of the line, picking up the worm with a long, sharp upsweep of the rod tip. Let ‘er rip! Let it drop down again to the bottom, under tension while slowly lowering the rod tip – keep on imitating live prey like this, moving, swimming and bobbing about and your predator will strike it with a vengeance.

Drift Trolling

Trailing behind the boat, covering the bottom worms crawl and move, simulating prey in its purest form. Raise and lower it occasionally, looking natural and alluring to any bass in the vicinity hunting for a tasty morsel.

Fly-rodding

In ponds, ,rivers, streams and lakes this approach is quite effective. Fly-fishing like techniques are very effective with bass. Begin by preparing and rigging a plastic worm, weed-less adding a small split-shot just before the hook. This will enable it to sink slowly. Flip or cast and allow it to drop and bob to the bottom. Quite the tease and hard for the bass with keen sight, sound and smell to miss. Keep the tip of the rod very low, to make it possible for you to make a well timed, strike when you feel a bass hit.

Night and Ice-fishing

Schooling, effective tackle and dropping the lure/bait right in front of the fish, not having them expend a lot of energy is the key for these timings and conditions. Water tends to be cooler and all your approaches, strategies and techniques need to slow down a notch. Bass also tend to school, during these times. Knowing this fact can help you in acquiring your target better and increasing your odds of getting a hit under these unusual or specialty conditions.

It is almost an impossibility to provide here for every unique condition and we barely scratched the surface on most of the contexts bass anglers might find themselves. We look forward to sharing more secrets with you and learning from your journey!

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Final Thoughts: Summary and Conclusions

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Catch-and-release fishing

Doing your part to protect nature and conserve it for future generations, is mandatory and regulated. Using barb-less hooks and or removing them easily. Holding the fish in the water, gently while unhooking, minimizing the trauma and damage to the fish is crucial. Support the fish and let it go with the current, swimming away and left to live another day, for many battles more to come!

Do all you can to understand and adhere to licensing, permits, closed season stipulations, minimum size and catch limits. These and other measures are there to protect and serve, to minimize the risk of over-fishing and species becoming extinct.

This might not be the utter finest book on bass fishing everwritten, but may the passion and contents inspire you to greatness as an avid and successful angler. If we can but ignite confidence and hints of excitement for fisher-folk, young and old, then these pages have succeeded!

May the road (and the waters, The Bass), come up to meet you… May your journey and journal grow, each entry teaching more, increasing confidence and aptitude!

May the pleasures of Bass fishing and the many ways we canchoose actively to partake of it, bring you continued and continual enjoyment, reward, haul and immense pleasure!

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References And Other Handy Books On Bass Fishing

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Live Bait Fishing: Including Doughbait & Scent (The Freshwater Angler)

By Gunnar Miesen (Author), Steve Hauge (Author)

ISBN: 1589231465
Binding: Hardcover
Pages: 128 pages

Roland Martin's 101 Bass-Catching Secrets

By Roland Martin (Author)

ISBN: 0832904570
Binding: Hardcover
Pages: 432 pages

The Field & Stream Bass-Fishing Handbook (Field & Stream)

By Mark Sosin (Author), Bill Dance (Author)

ISBN: 1558218955
Binding: Paperback
Pages: 128 pages

Encyclopedia of Fishing

By DK Publishing (Author)

ISBN: 1564584925
Binding: Hardcover
Pages: 288 pages

Hooked on Bass

By Alan Vaughan (Author), Mike Ladle (Author)

ISBN: 1861266294
Binding: Hardcover
Pages: 208 pages

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APPENDIX I

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Bass Fishing Glossary

Action - Measure of rod performance that describes the elapsed time between flexion and return to straight configuration; ranges from slow to fast, with slow being the most amount of flexion; also refers to the strength of the rod (light, medium and heavy) with light being a limber rod and heavy a stout rod; also refers to gear of reels.

Active Fish - Bass that are feeding heavily and striking aggressively.

Adaptation - Biological adjustment that increases fitness.

Algae - Simple plant organisms.

Alkalinity - Measure of the amount of acid neutralizing bases.

Alley - An opening between patches of emergent weeds; also the parallel space separating emergent weeds and the shoreline.

Amp - Measure of electrical current.

Amp Hour - Storage capacity measurement of a deep-cycle batter obtained by multiplying the current flow in amps by the hours that it is produced.

Angler - Person using pole or rod and reel to catch fish.

Anti-reverse - System that prevents reels from spinning in reverse.

Backlash - Tangle of line on a bait-casting reel due to spool overrun.

Backwater - Shallow area off a river.

Bag Limit - Restriction on the number of fish that an angler may harvest in a day.

Bail - Metal, semicircular arm on an open-face spinning reel that engages the line after a cast.

Bait - An artificial lure is usually what is meant even though bait can also mean live bait.

Bait casting - Fishing with a revolving-spool reel and bait casting rod; reel mounted on topside of rod.

Baitfish - Small fish often eaten by predators.

Bar - Long ridge in a body of water.

Basic Needs - Refers to the three survival requirements of bass: reproduction, security, and food.

Bay - Major indentation in the shoreline of a lake or reservoir.

Bite - When a fish takes or touches (or hammers) a bait so that the fisherman feels it. Also known as a hit, bump, or a strike.

Black Bass - Common term used to describe several types of bass, including the largemouth, smallmouth, and spotted bass.

Blank - Fishing rod without grip, guides or finish.

Brackish - Water of intermediate salinity between seawater and freshwater.

Break - Distinct variation in otherwise constant stretches of cover, structure, or bottom type. Basically anything, that "breaks up" the underwater terrain.

Break line - A line of abrupt change in depth, bottom type, or water clarity in the feature of otherwise uniform structure. A place where there is a sudden or drastic change in the depth of the water, or weed type. This may be the edge of a creek, a submerged cliff, or even a stand of submerged weeds.

Brush line - The inside or the outside edge of a stretch of brush.

Brush pile - Usually refers to a mass of small- to medium-sized tree limbs lying in the water. Brush piles may be only one or two feet across, or they may be extremely large and they may be visible or submerged. They can be created by Mother Nature or manmade. They usually hold fish. And fishermen.

Bumping - Refers to the act of making a lure hit an object such as a log, tree, or pier piling in a controlled manner. This is often done unintentionally, but can get the same reaction from the fish. Also, a lure making contact with the bottom.

Buzzbait - Topwater bait with large, propeller-type blades that churn the water during retrieve. Comprised of a leadhead, rigid hook, and wire that supports one or more blades.

Buzzing - Retrieving a lure, such as a spinnerbait or buzzbait, at a rate fast enough to cause it to remain partially out of the water, causing a noisy disturbance. Sometimes called ripping or burning.

Cabbage - Any of several species of weeds, located above the surface or underwater, of the genus Potamogeton.

Carolina Rig - A style of terminal tackle normally used to keep a lure a foot or two (or more) off the bottom. This is most commonly used with a plastic worm, but is also used with floating crankbaits and other lures as well. A barrel slip sinker of 1/2- to 1-ounce is first slipped on the line and then a swivel is tied to the end of the line. A piece of line 18 to 30 inches long is then tied to the other end of the swivel and a hook or lure is tied to the end of this piece line. Rigged Texas style (weedless with the hook buried in the body of the bait), the combination is excellent for fishing ledges, points, sandbars, and humps. Diagram

Channel - The bed of a stream or river.

Chugger - Topwater plug with a dished-out (concave or "cupped") head designed to make a splash when pulled sharply.

Clarity - Refers to the depth you are able to see an object (such as your lure) under the water.

Cold Front - A weather condition accompanied by high, clear skies, and a sudden drop in temperature.

Contact Point - The deepest position on structure where a bass angler can first effectively
present his lure to bass as they migrate from deep water.

Controlled Drift - The act of using an electric motor, drift sock, or oars to allow a drift to be accomplished at a certain speed and/or direction. This term is often called "drift fishing" by most anglers.

Coontail - Submerged aquatic plant of the hornwort family typically found in hard water;
charactreized by stiff, forked leaves.

Cosmic Clock - The sun's seasonal effect on water and weather conditions relating to barometric pressure, wind, and cloud cover.

Count It Down - Timing a sinking lure to determine when it will reach a specified depth. This
is accomplished by finding the rate of sinking of a lure in feet-per-second. Often used when fishing for suspended fish.

Cove - An indentation along a shoreline.

Cover - Natural or manmade objects on the bottom of lakes, rivers, or impoundments, especially those that influence fish behavior. Anything a fish can use to conceal itself. Examples include stick-ups, tree lines, stumps, rocks, logs, pilings, docks, weeds, boathouses, duck blinds, bushes, etc. (not to be confused with structure).

Crankbait - Typically, a lipped lure that dives under the surface during the retrieve. Socalled lipless crankbaits are thin, minnow-like lures that sink at a rate of about 1-foot per second.

Dabbling - Working a lure up and down in the same spot a dozen or more times in a bush or
beside a tree.

Depthfinder - A sonar device, either a flasher unit or LCR recorder, used to read the bottom structure, determine depth, and in some cases actually spot the fish; also called a fishfinder.

Disgorger - Device for removing hooks deeply embedded in the throat of fish.

Drag - Device on fishing reels that allows line to pay out under pressure, even though the reel is engaged; set correctly, it ensures against line breakage.

Drop-Off - A sudden increase in depth, created by gulley washes, small creek channels, land points, and the general lay of the land.

Drop Shot - A hook tied directly to the line from four-inches to four-feet above the sinker. The hook is attached from the back side or opposite the point, with a simple Palomar knot with a tag end about four or five feet long. The weight hangs and the hook is at a 90-degree angle to the line with the hook point up. The hook can be 18 to 24 inches above a bell sinker tied on with a slip-knot.

Ecology - The branch of biology dealing with the relationship between organisms and their environment.

Edge - Refers to the borders created by a change in the structure or vegetation in a lake. Some examples of edges are tree lines, weed lines, and the edge of a drop-off. Euthrophic - Highly fertile waters characterized by warm, shallow basins. Fan Cast - Making a series of casts only a few degrees apart to cover a half circle (more or less).

Farm Pond - Small manmade body of water.

Feeder Creek - Tributary to a stream.

Feeding Times - Certain times of the day when fish are most active. These are associated with the position of the sun and moon and are referred to as solunar tables (also called moon charts) and are predictable for any time and place. See Moon Times. Filamentous Algae - Type of algae characterized by long chains of attached cells that give it a stringy feel and appearance.

Feeding Cycle - Certain regular intervals during which bass satisfy their appetites. Examples: Major or Minor Solunar periods; sunrise, sunset.

Finesse Fishing - An angling technique characterized by the use of light tackle - line, rods, reel and artificial baits (often tube worms, grubs, or other small-sized soft-plastic lures); often productive in clear, fairly uncluttered water.

Flat - An area in a body of water with little if any change in depth. Small and large, flats are generally surrounded on at least one side by deeper water, the bottom comes up to form a flat area where fish will often move up for feeding.

Flipping - (generally shortened to flippin') The technique of placing a lure in a given spot precisely, and quietly, with as little disturbance of the water as possible using an underhand cast while controlling the line with your hand.

Flipping Stick - Heavy action fishing rod, 7 to 8 feet long, designed for bass fishing.

Florida Rig - Very similar to the Texas Rig, the only difference is the weight is secured by "screwing" it into the bait.

Fly 'N Rind - Same thing as jig-and-pig - a combination of a leadhead jig and pork rind trailer.

Forage - Small baitfish, crayfish and other creatures that bass eat. May also be used in the sense of the bass looking for food (foraging).

Front - Weather system that causes changes in temperature, cloud cover, precipitation,
wind and barometric pressure.

Gear Ratio - Measure of a reels' retrieve speed; the number of times the spool revolves for each complete turn of the handle.

Grayline - Grayline lets you distinguish between strong and weak echoes. It "paints" gray on targets that are stronger than a preset value. This allows you to tell the difference between a hard and soft bottom. For example, a soft, muddy or weedy bottom returns a weaker symbol which is shown with a narrow or no gray line. A hard bottom returns a strong signal which causes a wide gray line.

Grub - A short plastic worm used with a weighted jig hook.

Habitat - The place in nature where a plant or animal species lives. The water, vegetation, and all that makes up the lake, which is where bass live. Habitat, for other creatures, is also in the woods and cities, it's basically a term used to indicate a "living area" or home environment.

Hard Bottom - Area in a body of water with a solid base - clay, gravel, rock, sand. The type of bottom that you would not sink far, if at all, were you to walk on it.

Hawg - Usually refers to a lunker-size or heavyweight bass weighing 4 pounds or more.

Holding Area - Structure that habitually holds three to five catchable bass.

Holding Station - Place on lake where inactive fish spend most of their time.

Honey Hole - A super fishing spot containing a number of big bass; also any place with a large concentration of keeper bass. Horizontal Movement - The distance a fish moves while remaining at the same depth.

Hump - An area higher than the surrounding area. A submerged dam or island might be considered a hump.

Ichthyology - The branch of zoology that deals with fishes - their classification, structure, habits, and live history.

Inactive Fish - Bass that are in a non-feeding mood. Examples of typically inactive times: following a cold front; during a major weather change that causes a sudden rise or fall in water temperature, or when a rising lake lever is abruptly lowered.

Inside Bend - The inside line of a grass bed or a creek channel.

Isolated Structure - A possible holding spot for bass; examples include a single bush on a
point; a midlake hump, or a large tree that has fallen into the water. Jig - A leadhead poured around a hook and featuring a skirt of rubber, plastic, or hair. Jig-N-Pig - Combination of a leadhead jig and pork rind trailer; among the most effective baits for attracting trophy-size bass.

Keeper - A bass that conforms to a specific minimum length limit established by tournament organizations and/or state fisheries department.

Lake Modification Sources - Elements that change bodies of water, such as ice action, wave action, and erosion.

Lake Zones - Designation that includes four categories: shallow water, open water, deep water, and basin.

Laydown (or Falldown) - A tree that has fallen into the water.

Light Intensity - The amount of light that can be measured at certain depths of water; the greater the intensity, the farther down the light will project. This measurement can be significantly affected by wind conditions and water clarity. In waters where light intensity is low, brightly colored lures are smart choices.

Line Guides - Rod rings through which fishing line is passed.

Lipless Crankbaits - Artificial baits designed to resemble a swimming baitfish. Such plugs vibrate and/or wobble during retrieve; some have built-in rattles. Also called swimming baits.

Livewell - An aerated tank in boats used to hold fish in water until weigh-in time so that
they have a better chance of survival when released. Similar to an aquarium.

Logjam - A group of horizontal logs pushed together by wind or water flow to form an
obstruction. In lakes, logjams are usually found close to shore and in the backs of coves.

Loose-Action Plug - A lure with wide and slow movements from side to side.

Lunker - Normally, a bass weighing 4 pounds or more.

Micropterus Salmoides - Scientific term for largemouth bass.

Migration Route - The path followed by bass when moving from one area to another.

Milfoil - Surface-growing aquatic plants.

Mono - Short for monofilament fishing line.

Moon Times - Four phases of the moon are usually what the fisherman is concerned with. Generally the "best times" in a month occur three days prior and three days after, and include the day of the new or full moon. First quarter and second quarter periods are considered as only "good times."

Off Color - Refers to the color and or clarity of the water. Brown is muddy like from rain runoff, greenish from algae and black from tannic acid are the normal off-color conditions.

Our Hole - Proprietary term used by anglers to describe the area they intend to fish. (My hole, their hole, etc.) Though actually all holes are all angler's holes since the lakes being fished are mostly public water. It's only your hole if you get there first. Otherwise it's their hole.

Outside Bend - The outside line of a creek channel or grass bed can be considered on outside bend.

Oxbow - A U-shaped bend in a river.

Pattern - A defined set of location and presentation factors that consistently produce fish. Example: If you catch more than one fish off a pier or stick-up, then your chances of catching more bass in such places are excellent. This is commonly called "establishing a pattern".

Pegging - Putting a toothpick in the hole of a slip sinker to prevent the sinker from sliding along the line. Other items such as rubber bands slipped through the sinker have also become popular and don't snag line.

PFD - Initials that stand for Personal Floatation Device; also called a life vest.

pH - This is a measurement for liquids to determine whether they are acidic or alkaline. On a scale of one to ten, seven is considered neutral. Below seven the liquid is acidic and above seven it is alkaline. This is a factor that plays a role in the health of the lake and the fish as well as where the fish may be found in a lake.

pH Meter - Just as a thermometer measures heat and cold, a pH meter can be used to measure the acidity and alkalinity of water. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14. Bass generally prefer water that is slightly alkaline in the 7.5 to 7.9 range. Water with a pH less than 7 is acidic. Once popular among serious bass fishermen, the device is no longer widely used.

Pick-Up - The act of a bass taking a slowly fished lure, such as a plastic worm, crawfish or lizard.

Pit - Area excavated for mining operations that fills with water.

Pitching - Presentation technique in which worms or jigs are dropped into cover at close range with an underhand pendulum motion, using a 6 ? to 71/2 foot baitcasting rod. The act of pitching a bait into a pocket or under tree limbs. Similar to flipping, but requires less stealth and usually done from further distances (known as pitchin').

Pocket - A small indentation of the shoreline.

Point - A finger of land jutting into the water; deeper water is usually found just beyond the exposed tip and along the length of both sides. Fishing on and around points is often exceptionally rewarding. They almost always hold fish.

Post Front - The period following a cold front; atmosphere clears and becomes bright; usually characterized by strong winds and a significant drop in temperature.

Presentation - A collective term referring to choice of type of lure, color, and size; structure targeted; amount of disturbance a bait makes when entering the water; and retrieval technique, speed, and depth used to catch fish. This refers to the circumstances and manner (speed and direction, etc.) in which a lure is presented to a fish.

Pro - A very few of the nation's top bass fishermen can truly claim the word professional. Not only must the pro be a consistent money winner on the major tournament circuits, but he or she must also be articulate, a good salesperson, present a clean-cut image, and have the ability to teach others to catch fish.

Professional Overrun - A polite term for backlash.

Revolving-Spool Reel - Another term for baitcasting reel. The spool turns during casting, unlike the spool of a spinning or spincasting reel.

Reservoir - Artificially created place where water is collected and stored; also called an impoundment.

Riprap - A man-made stretch of rocks or material of a hard composition that usually extend above and below the shoreline; often found near dams of big impoundments.

Saddle - Site where structure narrows before widening again.

Sanctuary - Deep-water bass habitat.

Scatter Point - Position along structure where bass start to separate or scatter; often found in shallow water, at or very close to a breakline.

Short Strike - When a fish hits at a lure and misses it.

Slack Line - The loose line from the tip of the rod to the lure. This can be a slight bow in the line to an excess of line lying on the water.

Slicks - Bass not long enough to meet tournament standards; typically less than 14 inches. Such fish also are called "nubbins ", "through backs", "pop corns", "babies" and "dinks".

Slip Sinker - A lead weight with a hole through the center. Threaded on line, a slip sinker slides freely up and down.

Slough - A long, narrow stretch of water such as a small stream or feeder tributary off a lake or river.

Slow Roll - Spinnerbait presentation in which the lure is retrieved slowly through and over cover objects.

Slush Bait - Topwater plug with flat or pointed head.

Spincaster - A manner of fishing employing a push-button, closed-face spinning reel and baitcasting rod; reel is mounted on topside of rod.

Spinnerbait - A leadhead lure similar in shape to an open safety-pin with a hook; other features include a rubber, plastics, or hair skirt, and one or two blades of various shapes and sizes.

Spinning - A manner of fishing employing an open-face or closed-face spinning reel an spinning rod; reel is mounted on the underside of the rod; rod guides are on the underside of the rod.

Split Shotting - Often called stitch fishing because you move the bait in increments no larger than a sewing stitch and made just as slowly and patience is the key. Use a small #5 splitshot and crimp it about 18 inches above a light wire 1/0 or lighter small hook. Spinning tackle is a must. Small worms, 3-inch salt craws and others are perfect for the gentle application required.

Spook - The act of alarming a fish in a negative way. Examples: excessive noise, casting a human shadow.

Stick-Up - Stationary structure - stump, limb, section of pipe, fence post - that extends about 5 feet or less above the surface; a favorite casting target of bass fishermen.

Stragglers - Bass that remain near shore following a general migration.

Stringer - Antiquated term for a limit of fish, used by tournament anglers to indicate their catch (10-pound stringer = 10 pounds of fish. Not actually used any longer to retain bass, just a term people can't seem to stop using. (see livewell).

Structure - Changes in the shape of the bottom of lakes, rivers, or impoundments, especially those that influence fish behavior. This is probably the most misunderstood word in bass fishing. Structure is a feature on the bottom of the lake. Some examples of structure are creeks, humps, depressions, sandbars, roadbeds, ledges, and drop-offs. Some examples that are not structure: a stump, tree, or brush pile (these are cover).

Suspended Fish - Bass at midlevel depths, neither near the surface nor on the bottom.

Swimming Lures - Sinking-type artificial baits designed to resemble a swimming baitfish. Such plugs vibrate and/or wobble during retrieve; some have built-in rattles. Also called lipless crankbaits.

Tail-Spinners - Compact, lead-bodied lures with one or two spinner blades attached to the tail, and a treble hook suspended from the body; designed to resemble a wounded shad; effective on schooling bass.

Taper - An area in a body of water that slopes toward deeper depths.

Terminal Tackle - Angling equipment, excluding artificial baits, attached to the end of a fishing line; examples include hooks, snaps, swivels, snap-swivels, sinkers, floats, and plastic beads.

Texas Rig - The method of securing a hook to a soft-plastic bait - worm, lizard, crawfish, so that the hook is weedless. A slip sinker is threaded onto the line and then a hook is tied to the end of the line. The hook is then inserted into the head of a worm for about one-quarter of an inch and brought through until only the eye is still embedded in the worm. The hook is then rotated and the point is embedded slightly into the worm without coming out the opposite side. Diagram

Thermocline - The layer of water where the temperature changes at least one-half a degree per foot of depth. Basically, a layer of water where rising warm and sinking cold water meet.

Tight-Action Plug - A lure with short, rapid side-to-side movement.

Tiptop - Line guide at top of fishing rod.

Topwaters - Floating hard baits that create some degree of surface disturbance during
retrieve.

Trailer Hook - The extra hook, or cheater hook added to a single-hook lure, such as a spinnerbait or weedless spoon.

Transition - The imaginary line where one type of bottom material changes to another.

Treble Hook - Hook with single or bundled shaft and three points.

Triggering - Employment of any lure-retrieval technique or other fishing strategy that causes a bass to strike.

Trolling Motor - A small electric fishing motor, typically mounted on the bow, that is used as secondary boat propulsion, for boat positioning, and to maneuver quietly in fishing areas.

Turnover - The period when the cold water on the surface of a body of water descends and is replaced by warmer water from below.

Vertical Movement - Up and down movement of fish. Can also be movement of a lure such as a spoon (verticaljigging).

Weedless - A description of a lure designed to be fished in heavy cover with a minimum amount of snagging.

Weedline - Abrupt edge of a weedbed caused by a change in depth, bottom type, or other factor.

Wormin' - The act of fishing with a plastic worm, lizard, crawfish, or similar bait.

Table of Contents

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

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Contents

1 Introduction
2 Basics of HDTV
3 Types of HDTV Sets
4 HDTV - Key Features and Connectivity Options
5 LCD HDTV or Plasma HDTV
6 HDTV Display Systems
7 How To Judge the Picture Quality of HDTV
8 HDTV With DVI/HDCP
9 HDTV and Dolby Digital Sound System
10 Budget and Pricing
11 Warranty for HDTV
12 Accessories for HDTV
13 How to Set Up Your HDTV
14 The Future of HDTV
15 Glossary of Important Terms

Introduction

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It was very easy to buy a new television a decade ago, since we had limited options. You could have easily bought a new television for your family with a quick trip to your local consumer electronics store. However, things have changed now. In the last few decades, television has undergone some astounding transformations. Today, you have an extensive range of televisions with better picture quality, sound, and sizes. When it comes to the latest innovations in television technology, nothing can beat the High Definition television (HDTV).

HDTV became available in the market in late 90’s. Since then, it has been becoming popular increasingly. It offers an unmatched experience of watching television, and is available in multiple sizes, styles and colors. However, what makes a HDTV unreachable to common people is its heavy price tag. Therefore, if you are planning to buy a HDTV, be prepared to spend a lot of money. Even if money is not an issue for you, do not rush out to the stores in a hurry. Before you buy a new HDTV, you have to make out a vast array of decisions.

Buying a HDTV can seem an intimidating task. There are so many types on the market with different type of features and specifications, which make your decision-making process an uphill task. Nevertheless, you need not get into panic mode. This e-book will help you all through the way by providing you reliable and useful information. It will help you Identify the entire essential details to consider, and will make your search quick and painless. It will not only make buying your HDTV easy for you but also pleasurable, until you do not receive your credit card bills, of course. The manual contains some untold secrets related to HDTV you should consider before buying one.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

Basics Of HDTV

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The first step in knowing the essentials you need to consider before buying the HDTV is to become familiar with its basics. The following passages will let you understand what is HDTV, how does it work, and what is the future of HDTV.

What is HDTV?
HD stands for high definition, and it is the new standard of television viewing. HDTV is actually part of the Digital Television (DTV) specifications brought by the Advanced Television Systems Committee (ATSC). ATSC has defined eighteen different transmission formats, out of which six are considered ‘High Definition,’ because they constitute an incredible improvement over the resolution quality of a normal television.

HDTV has 1125 lines of resolution in comparison to 525 lines in the Regular NTSC analog signals. Thus, HDTV carries over five times the video information, as compared to your conventional NTSC analog TV set. In one way, it is the biggest advantage, and the other way it creates a hurdle because HDTV transmission requires an extraordinary bandwidth, five times the capacity of a conventional TV signal. True, they are five times better than your conventional TV, but then, they are 50% more expensive also.

A Brief History of HDTV
Although HDTV has a very short history, in it has been playing a major role in the transformation of digital home entertainment space. The credit goes to the satellite TV service providers, who have made HDTV such a hot cake today.

It all started almost 15 years ago in 1987, when FCC (The Federal Communications Commission) issued a rule stating that that HDTV standard must be compatible with existing NTSC service. However, later in 1990, General Instrument Corporation proposed for an all-digital HDTV system. By the end of 1990, four serious contenders in the United States, ATRC, Zenith HDTV, AT&T, and MIT, announced their digital entry in HDTV system. Then 1993 was a remarkable year in the history of HDTV in the US, when a grand Alliance was formed. The alliance included major players such as, AT&T, GI, MIT, Phillips, Sarnoff, Thomson, and Zenith. Their task was to take the best features from the four HDTV systems and develop a standard HDTV system. They successfully tested it in 1995 and the FCC set it as the HDTV standard.

How Does HDTV work?
You can receive HDTV signals in your home through any of the three broadcast systems, over the air through antenna, cable, and satellite. Although some hurdles regarding digital broadcasting remain unaddressed, they would be addressed soon. For digital broadcasting, a show is first recorded in HD format using HD cameras and equipments. Then, it is distributed digitally over the air, cable or satellite. Now, you just need an HDTV-compatible TV with a HDTV tuner or receiver to decode the digital signal. That is it. Your HDTV is ready. Sit back and enjoy.

Antenna, Digital Cable or Satellite?
Antenna is free of monthly charges, but you will be able to watch the broadcast channels only. You will have to perform certain antenna gymnastics to watch other channels. However, if you can afford a HDTV, you can use cable or satellite as well. If you choose to go with satellite option, you must see if you would get line of sight to the satellite. Sometimes, the beam from the satellite is blocked, for example due to a gigantic tree in your neighborhood. You need to place the satellite dish with a clear view of the northern sky. Therefore, it is highly advisable to visit your neighbors and see how their HDTVs are functioning.

Analog, Digital and HDTV- A Comparison
Analog: For years, watching TV has involved analog signals. The signal is made of continuing varying radio waves that the TV translates into pictures and sounds. These signals reach your TV over the air, through a cable, or via satellite. Obviously, it can show only standard-definition program such as those found on regular TV, direct TV, Dish TV, cable or satellite.

Digital: Digital television is better known as DTV. A digital signal transmits the information for video and sound as ones and zeroes instead of a wave in a digital format. Digital television has certain advantages over analog. For example picture quality of digital TV is always better irrespective of the size of the screen. It allows multi-casting, and TV stations can broadcast several signals using the same bandwidth. It can also display progressive-scan DVD and can support HDTV broadcast as well.

HDTV: HDTV is by far the most common and advanced form of digital television. It can display almost everything including standard TV, progressive-scan DVD, and HDTV signals.

Issues with HDTV

Distribution
There are two kinds of advocates for HDTV systems. One who feel that HDTV will ultimately be successful outside the conventional channels. Others who feel HDTV is capable and it must use the existing conventional channels. However, there are two options available to cable TV companies. Either they can continue to broadcast conventional NTSC by installing 20 MHz MUSE-type HDTV systems, or they can go with the digital grand aliens systems. This leads to two interesting possibilities of two different HDTV standards – one for terrestrial broadcast and other for cable broadcast.

Bandwidth Limitations
HDTV means a bandwidth of 18 MHz. Therefore, if you decide to move on to HDTV there is a problem, since the current terrestrial channel allocations are limited to 6 MHz only. This way there are three options available to terrestrial broadcast. First, to change the channel allocation system from 6 MHz to 20 Mhz; second, to compress the HDTV signal to fit inside the 6 MHz; and third, to allocate multiple channels for the HDTV signal. Out of the three options, only the third one allows compatibility.

HDTV: Myths and Realities
There are so many things to consider before buying a HDTV, given the significant amount of confusions it has created. Most of them are simply myths. We have tried to cover some common concerns regarding HDTV.

Myth: DTV is the same as HDTV
Reality: No. DTV is just another term for Digital TV. DTV is a technology, in which signal is broadcast or received digitally. HDTV is one type of DTV transmission. Where DTV improves picture and sound over analog signals, HDTV offers the highest resolution picture and sound, all digitally.

Myth: Digital cable is the same as HDTV
Reality: No. Digital cable is just an improvement of picture and sound quality over regular analog cable, but in no way it is of high definition.

Myth: Non-HDTV programs cannot be viewed in HDTV
Reality: It is not completely true. You can watch non-HDTV programs on HDTV, but picture quality will suffer a little. Black and gray bars may appear on the left and right side of the screen to set the image in 4:3 aspect ratio.

Myth: We need to fiddle with a switch or wire when changing from satellite to antenna signal.
Reality: The HDTV automatically detects a HDTV station, whether it is being received via antenna or satellite. You just have to use the remote control to change channels.

Myth: All Digital TVs are HDTV compatible
Reality: No, this is not true. Not all Digital TVs are HDTV compatible.

Myth: The quality of HDTV varies with satellite, cable, and antenna
Reality: Quality of picture remains the same irrespective of whether you are receiving signals through antenna, cable or satellite.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

Types Of HDTV Sets

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The types of HDTV are categorized on the basis of technology, the screen width, and the requirement of either a HDTV tuner or an independent unit. While buying a HDTV, you have to consider these aspects carefully. Let us have a look at each of them separately.

Types of HDTVs Based On Technology
The most popular type is direct view HDTV that uses standard Cathode Ray Tube (CRT) and rear projection technology, similar to the standard TVs. However, this technology is going to get obsolete sooner or later. New advanced technologies are going to take over in the near future. These technologies are cost-saving and loaded with extra features, such as, transmitting clearer and brighter images. The standard TVs stand no chance in competing with this new version, as they are burdened with the production costs and size restrictions. The biggest direct view HDTV comes with a screen width of 36 inches. Besides this, the rear projection technology is shadowed with problems of screen burn in, convergence, and obscurity of image during brightness or at an angle.

The entertainment world has received a breakthrough with the introduction of amazing TV technologies like Plasma TVs, LCoS (Liquid Crystal on Silicon), LCD (liquid crystal displays), and DLP (Digital Light Processor) rear-projection units. Before a decade, one could have never imagined a television that could be hung on the wall! But Plasma TV has made this possible too. Although each of these technologies displays their own advantages and disadvantages, they come with the promise of a better picture quality. The HDTV’s installed with the advanced technologies are, in no case, inferior to the older versions of HDTV.

Plasma TV and LCD Technology
As far as LCD TVs and Plasma TVs are concerned, the technologies provide the benefit of a compact structure. Many new versions of TVs are only a few inches thick and weigh just a fraction of the older versions. The flat LCD TVs with a screen size less than 37 inches are a favorite among the buyers. They are classy and can be placed anywhere. They prove to be a worthwhile substitute for a standard medium-sized television set.

Buyers who wish to stick to the old-fashioned rear projection technology also have an array of options to choose from. However, it is good to skip the tube based rear projection technology now, as micro-display technology is in vogue. Once the angle is adjusted, it provides a sharp picture. CRT based rear projection technology is soon going to become a thing of the past.

While buying a Plasma TV, one should be fully aware of the rewards as well as the shortcomings of the technology, compared to other types of HDTV. One of the things to be careful about Plasma TV is the risk of burn-in. However, this problem has been overstated by some people. In fact, many users of Plasma TV, who watch television for about 7-8 hours daily, have not found anything serious about this burn-in problem. The probability of burn-in is the highest in the initial 100 hours of use. To avoid burn-in, one should keep the TV at low contrast, not more than 50%, and refrain from displaying still images or letterbox bars on the TV screen for several hours continuously.

Once 100 hours of usage is over, Plasma TV becomes long lasting, just like any other standard television. A number of plasma TVs come with burn-in-reduction features, such as pixel orbiting and screensavers. Some of them are programmed with defense mechanisms. For example, if burn-in takes place, the screen goes all white.

DLP Technology
DLP technology is also winning the hearts of many buyers. A wide range of HDTV sets with DLP technology are available in the market. Their picture quality differs with the price and the company that manufactures it. However, DLP technology comes with one minor hitch. A few buyers have reported to come across short stripes of color on their TV screens, especially while viewing bright pictures or images of black fields. However, the manufacturers are in the process of upgrading this technology in order to overcome such minor pitfalls. One should be able to have access to the advanced versions by 2007.

HDTVs based On Screen Width
Before shopping for HDTV, one has to decide between a wide screen TV and a normal size TV. HDTVs with a wide screen have a display ratio of 16:9, while the normal ones have a ratio of 4:3. The image seen in a normal sized TV is mainly square shaped. But the image appearing in wide screen TV appears to be in rectangular form. Wide screen HDTV is akin to the screens used in movie halls and DVDs. It is also the customary configuration for HDTV signals. Wide screen TVs are gaining popularity rapidly. The production of 4:3 format screens is about to be scrapped. TV manufacturers are all set to concentrate on wide screen TVs now. You have to note that Plasma TVs and LCDs are available only in wide screen formats.

Lifespan of Plasma TV
Most of the Plasma TV manufacturers claim their product lifespan to be around 50,000-60,000 hours. This comes to around 20 years. However, even if we consider 30,000 hours, then considering the average TV viewing hours in an American household, which amounts to about 8-9 hours daily, a Plasma TV can work without any flaws for at least 10 years. And after that, the TV loses 50% of its brightness, similar to any standard TV.

HDTVs are manufactured in many sizes, ranging from 13 inches to 85 inches. There are many leading TV companies that manufacture HDTVs. Samsung, Sony, Panasonic, Toshiba, RCA, Sharp, JVC, Pioneer, Mitsubishi, and Magnavox are some of the big names that boast of producing at least one type of HDTV sets.

HDTVs with In-Built Tuner and Those without It
One more feature that distinguishes the HDTVs is the incorporation of a HDTV tuner. It is also called a receiver. There are some HDTVs that come without a receiver and one has to install a separate unit for the functioning of the TV.

Most of the HDTV sets available in the market do not contain an incorporated tuner. This is not a disadvantage. On the contrary, the manufacturers find it be quite beneficial, as it cuts down their costs of assembling the parts of an HDTV tuner. Moreover, it also enables them to provide a compact structure to their HDTV sets.

For the buyers too, a HDTV without a tuner is preferable. This is because technologies are never constant. They keep on changing over the years. Tomorrow, one may find a new digital technology coming up in the market. Hence, to ensure a good investment in an HDTV set, it is better to go for a separate tuner, which can be upgraded to keep in pace with the new technology.

Besides this, the cable and satellite operators that are into HDTV programming normally provide a separate tuner. Most of the times, this is included in the subscription package. Thus, one can save the cost of buying a tuner.

Which Type of HDTV to Choose
With a wide variety of HDTVs available in the market, you may get perplexed while choosing the right one. However, there are ways to assist the buyers in deciding which type of HDTV set to buy. There are reviews of customers available in TV shops. These reviews are reliable, as no customer would appreciate a product, if he or she is not satisfied with it. HDTV sets come with varied types, looks, configurations, and prices. One would never be short of choices. Choose the one that suits your budget and lifestyle. HDTV is the perfect choice for anyone who wishes to spruce up their way of living.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

HDTV Display Systems

2008-08-05T00:53:00.012-04:00

Pictures in HDTV look sharper and clearer than that of regular TVs. The quality of the high definition broadcast signal is such that the images you see life like images. This incredible picture quality makes you feel as if you are on the soccer field, when you are watching a soccer match. If you are watching a movie on your HDTV, you would feel like you are sitting in the front seat of a movie theatre.

Wide Screen
The hallmark of a HDTV is its rectangular wide screen and the high resolution of display. The way the picture is transmitted and displayed on the screen depends upon its aspect ratio. The aspect ratio is the width to height ratio of a TV monitor or its program format. In comparison to the 4:3 aspect ratio of the old analog TV, which has a square appearance, the wide screen of HDTV has a 16:9 viewing aspect ratio. This makes the real difference that why the later leads to a better visual and acoustic enjoyment of watching television.

Why Wide Screen Display Is Better?
The simple reason is that the wider view is closer to the human vision. Our vision is optimized within a 30-degree field, and beyond 30-degree there is no visible benefit. The central area of this field provides us the best view, but the peripheral vision is better at detecting motion. Where the 4:3 aspect ratio of analog television allows us only a 10-degree field of vision, HDTV allows us a complete 30-degree.

Note: Do not confuse the aspect ratio with the screen size. The screen size is the diagonal measurement. HDTV comes in multiple sizes, but the aspect ratio is always 16:9.

Resolution
HDTV comes in two different resolutions – 1080i and 720p. The ‘i’ in 1080i means interlaced, and the ‘p’ in 720p means progressive. In both the resolutions, every second consists of 60 frames of video.

Progressive Resolution
Progressive resolution puts 60 full frames on the screen every second. The 720p video resolution is 1280 X 720 pixels, which gives 921,600 total pixels.

Interlaced Resolution
Unlike progressive resolution, interlaced resolution puts half and half, 30 frames of odd lines and 30 frames of even lines, on the screen every second. Some people complain that it causes flickers on screen. However, the fact is you see the complete image on your TV screen two times more often, which results in smoother motion, and the flickers, if at all they exist are not visible. The 1080i video resolution is 1920 X 1080, which gives whopping 2,073,000 pixels.

What is pixel, and how does it make a difference?
A TV screen is made up of small picture elements known as pixels. Each pixel constitutes three closely spaced dot colors – red, blue and green. Combined together on the TV’s phosphor screen, and when viewed from a distance, the colors are seen as one. The pixels in the analog system are slightly taller than their width while in HDTV they are 4.5 times smaller, spaced closer, and square in shape. This enables HDTV to display 4.5 times more detail than analog television.

Which resolution is better?
It is nothing like which one is better. Both 720p and 1080i have their own qualities. Though not quite visible but technically the displayed images on 1080i slightly flickers. This causes a psychological difference, and some people like the slightly more ‘stable’ picture of 720p, while others prefer the whopping resolution of 1080i. If you find it difficult to decide, our only suggestion is that you run down to your local TV store and see for yourself. After all, the beauty is in the eyes of the beholder.

Different TV display technologies
There are three different formats, which offer the HD technology.

CRT (Cathode Ray Tube) – This paints the images onto the screen. The style is perfect in any lighting condition and from every angle.

Plasma Display – It has an ultra-thin design, and it displays digital images at a high resolution. The major drawback is that it is costly and picture quality is affected, as it does not display black color efficiently. Moreover, many plasma displays do not display HDTV resolution.

LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) – It uses two different polarized, transparent panel to house a liquid in the middle. It is thin in design but there are certain size limitations. Picture quality is good for static displays only. When it comes to display images in motion, LCD does not perform well. Moreover, many LCD displays are not HDTV capable.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

HDTV - Key Features And Connectivity Options

2008-08-05T00:53:00.010-04:00

HDTV-Capable and HDTV-Ready

One of the commendable features of a digital TV is that it can receive and display both ATSC (Advanced Television Systems Committee) Digital TV signals and NTSC (National Television Systems Committee) Analog TV signals. While shopping for HDTV, one might come across terms like HDTV-Capable and HDTV-Ready. Speaking in layman’s terms, a digital TV that is capable of displaying an HDTV quality image is a HDTV-Capable. However, it is not incorporated with HDTV receiver or tuner, hence, cannot catch a HDTV signal. Such a digital TV requires a separate HDTV receiver to be connected to the set. Do not be baffled, if the shopkeeper uses terms like Set-Top-Box (STB) or Decoder. They are the names given to HDTV receiver or tuner.

HDTV-Ready is generally used as a substitute of HDTV-Capable. However, one should be clear that HDTV-Ready does not always mean HDTV-Capable. Before installing an independent HDTV tuner, one should always check whether it is attuned to the HDTV set and to the cable or satellite system being used. Also, the independent HDTV tuner should be proficient in receiving Over-The-Air (OTA) television broadcasts.

Remember, “Digital ready" and "HDTV-ready" do not essentially mean that your TV will receive and exhibit digital HDTV programs. Before making the final purchase, always confirm that the HDTV set you have chosen shows real HDTV resolutions. There are some HDTV-Ready sets designed in such a way that they can receive HDTV signals, but cannot display pictures in HDTV Resolutions.

Audio and Video Connectivity

One should purchase a HDTV set that has the highest number of ports, rendering several connectivity options. We have different types of connectors and cables. Their mode of function is different and the type of parts used also varies in each of them. A HDTV set needs appropriate HDTV Cables and connectors.
The following are few examples:

- HDTV Video: It has HDMI (High Definition Media Interface), HDTV-Component (Y/Pb/Pr), and DVI (Digital Video Interface)
-SDTV Video: It is similar to HDTV or S-Video Connectors. One can use a standard 3-wire RCA. However, it is not advisable.
-Standard Stereo: RCA – 2 or 3 wire
-Dolby Digital Audio: Digital Coax; Fiber Optic
-Analog Video: Use a standard 3-wire RCA

In some sets, one may find some extra ports in the front or in the sides. It becomes handier to add connections with such ports.

One cannot have each and every connection available in the world in the HDTV set. One has to decide what connections one wishes to have, for example, Video Game, VCR, DVD, PVR/DVR/HD-DVR, PC, A/V Receiver, Set-Top-Box, and so on. The number of ports and their types are based on the decision regarding the connections. Also, the types of connections reflect how soon the HDTV set will get outdated. Hence, one should not decide in haste, but look out for all possibilities and then make the final nod.
Remember, one cannot have innumerable ports in a HDTV set.

HDTV Tuner or Receiver

It is also called Set-Top-Box or Decoder. This is a necessity for the functioning of a HDTV set. Without its installation, HDTV cannot receive the signals, which include satellite, cable, high definition digital-VHS recording, Over-The-Air broadcasts, and HD-DVD. The Set-Top-Box also displays DVD with progressive scan and HDTV-capable video games.

As mentioned earlier, one should always confirm whether the Set-Top-Box or HDTV receiver is compatible with the HDTV set.
Some set-top-boxes are meant exclusively for using with a particular cable or satellite service. One can also get a separate HDTV tuner for accepting OTA Broadcasts. One needs to contact the cable operator for transforming the cable Set-Top-Box to an HDTV Set-Top-Box.

Extra Features

There are other added features to look into before installing the HDTV set in the house. These features depend on a series of conditions, such as the mode of receiving the HDTV signals, the kind of display one wants, the type of components already installed, and others.

There are added components available with HDTV dealers. Sometimes they are a necessity, while at other times they may be an individual choice. For instance, a digital HDTV-Capable set needs a separate HDTV tuner; a few of the Plasma TVs do not have any audio components incorporated in them; a Front Projection TV set may not boast of an in-built decoder; and so on.

You need to do a little pondering over the connectivity options before leaving the shop with the sleek new HDTV set.

Be sure about the following things before tossing the credit card on the counter of the shop:

- The length of the cables and their compatibility with all audio-video connections.
- Need of some special cables, connectors, or converters.
- Need of another or some specific sized "satellite-dish" for unobstructed receiving of HDTV Signals from satellite service.
- The way to upgrade cable set-top-box to HDTV set-top-box, if you have satellite or cable service. Sometimes, you may require an integration of set-top-box and HDTV receiver to catch the HDTV signals from the source.
- Surge protectors.

Although Surge protectors are crucial, beware of certain cheap devices that are supposed to be surge protectors but do not provide any protection. Also, do not think that expensive devices are always the best ones. Check the device before purchasing. This is the most sensible thing to do. Cost of any product does not reflect its true performance.

Over-The-Air (OTA) Antenna

If one wishes the HDTV to receive Over-The-Air (OTA) Digital TV or HDTV Broadcasts, one has to set up a specific TV antenna. You should know how far the transmitters are located from your house. The type of antenna depends on this distance. If the source of transmission is nearby, then a simple set-top antenna, characterized with its rabbit-ear shape can work for you.
Do not fall in the trap of some people suggesting the setting up of HDTV-Capable antenna. There is no such thing. In order to accept HDTV signals, one only needs to arrange a superior UHF antenna, or in some places, maybe a VHF-UHF combined antenna.
Those who reside at the periphery of the broadcast range of local station, which is about 50 miles; they may need an antenna meant for the greatest reception. Such antenna may be expensive.

Amplifiers and Antenna Rotors

Amplifiers can remarkably enhance the reception. However, the opposite can happen too. An ill-assorted amplifier can worsen the reception. Besides this, trees, high-rise buildings, undulating topography, or the presence of some electronic waves can interfere with the reception. Moreover, a number of local stations transmit the digital HDTV signals at considerably reduced wavelengths. This becomes difficult for even the superior quality antenna to catch the signals from far away places.
An Antenna Rotor facilitates the exact positioning of the antenna. If there is more than one transmitting tower situated in various directions in the premises of your location, the use of an antenna rotor becomes even more important. If you want to shop for an Antenna Rotor, prefer the newly designed ones. They come with the benefit of a digital controller, which can be held in the hands. This one is a good buy.

Verify and Then Buy

Remember; buy only when you are sure of the product. If any doubt ruffles your mind, do not ignore it. Do not hesitate to inquire about the product. If you are not convinced with the information, check out some other shop. A fully aware customer will never regret his or her investment in the purchased product.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

LCD HDTV Or Plasma HDTV

2008-08-05T00:53:00.009-04:00

If you are looking for a flat-screen, slim and classic HDTV, you have two choices, LCD HDTV and Plasma HDTV. A few years ago, it was an easy task to make a decision. If you wanted a 40-inch or bigger flat screen, the only available option was Plasma HDTV, otherwise you should have chosen LCD. However, things have changed now with the improved technology of LCD HDTVs. Now, to decide which one is better is not an easy task. Both the versions of HDTVs have their benefits and disadvantages. Therefore, each one is better in certain circumstances. The following details will certainly help you to choose one that best suits your requirements. After you have gone through all these details, you will have a better idea of which HDTV is right for you.

How do the two technologies work?
Plasma HDTV
Phosphor, a chemical compound, is the heart of a Plasma HDTV. The light you see on a plasma screen is caused by these phosphors. Each pixel in a Plasma HDTV is made up of three types of phosphors, red, blue, and green. When beams of electrons strike with these phosphors, they emit light. The amount of light depends upon the intensity of the electron beams.

LCD HDTV
Where phosphors play a major role in the technology of Plasma HDTVs, in LCD HDTVs, it is crystals. Crystals, in the form of liquid, is sandwiched between transparent panels. There is a bright florescent light behind these panels. The sandwiched crystals are instructed to either let the light pass or not. Color filters are also used, which determine the color.

Does size matter?
Since both Plasma and LCD TVs are large screen televisions, size does not matter that much. However, if you consider viewing area by size, Plasma TVs have always been a good choice. Again, you can find more varieties of Plasma TVs in comparison to LCD TVs. On the other hand, if by size you mean the size of your bank account, it matters indeed. For the same size, Plasma TVs are normally less expensive.

Viewing Angle
The viewing angle is the feature that determines how far off to the side you can sit from the TV and still see the picture clearly. It is very important to consider the viewing angle because not all of your family members can sit literally in front of the TV. When it comes to viewing angle, Plasma TV has a definite edge over LCDs. Some LCD-manufacturers claim that the 170-degree field of vision offered by them allows accurate viewing. That is not true at all. You may be able to see what is happening at that angle, but it is not the same as sitting more directly head on.

Issues with Plasma and LCD HDTVs
There are certain issues with both Plasma and LCD HDTVs. The following details will help you understand them.

Problems with the Dead Pixels
There are certain problems with pixels in both the televisions. Sometimes pixel is always ON. For example, it lit up when the screen is black. Sometimes the pixel is always OFF. For example, it looks black when it should have color. You must buy your HDTV from reputed manufacturers, because in that case there are lesser possibilities of such problems. Again, if you face any such problem, reputed manufacturers take care of it.

Which Is Better For Fast Moving Actions?
A common belief is that Plasma TVs are better than LCD TVs in this regard. This is even true indeed. When you watch an action on LCD TV, for example, a football player moving down the field, the edges of his body might look somewhat fuzzy. You might find some jagged and blocky lines instead of a clean one, which is not the case with a Plasma TV.

Burn-in Effect
One of the biggest potential negatives with Plasma TVs is the ‘Burn-in’ effect. This is where LCD HDTVs have a definite edge over the Plasma HDTV. LCD panels do not suffer from ‘Burn-in’ effect. ‘Burn-in’ happens when an image stays on the screen for an extended period and then image literally burns in the screen. It means that even when the image is not present, you can still see a faint trace of the image on the TV screen. Hence, for video gamers and sports lovers, LCD HDTV is definitely a better choice than the Plasma TV.

Life Span
In general, the life span of both LCD and Plasma HDTVs is good. With time and technology, it is getting better indeed. Still, LCD HDTVs have an edge over Plasma versions when it comes to life span because their light source can be replaced, but once a plasma TV gets faded image, you cannot replace it. However, replacing bulbs on an LCD can cost you as much as a few thousand dollars. If we believe what manufacturers claim, then both LCD and Plasma TV last at least 30,000 hours before any noticeable depreciation in the image quality. Hence, if you watch television 10 hours a day, you would not have any problem for the next eight years, and if you watch television just for 4 hours a day, you would get over 20 years of viewing before seeing any depreciation.

Overall Picture Quality
This is perhaps the most important area of consideration while choosing between Plasma and LCD HDTVs. Picture quality rather depends on your personal taste. Both of the TVs have their own qualities. Choice is yours.

Color
A common belief is that LCD TVs produce sharper pictures with more realistic colors. The truth is somewhat different. In Plasma HDTV you will find realistic and a wider range of colors. LCD TVs give you a vibrant, primary colors type of feel. Plasma TVs give subtler, warmer pastels, but perhaps more accurate. However, at the end of the day, it all depends on your personal taste.

Brightness
LCD TVs tend to be brighter and more colorful while plasma TVs tend to be warmer with more accurate color reproduction. However, most people believe that LCD HDTVs perform better in bright-light condition than the Plasma HDTVs.

Black Levels
Plasma TV has the ability to produce deep black colors. Dark color on LCD TV is a somewhat complicated process. Instead of deep black, LCD TVs produce dark gray. When you become used to the set’s color, this goes unnoticed. Still, technically, Plasma scores an edge in this regard.

Prices
Plasma TVs have established something of a better reputation than LCD TVs. Even when it comes to price, they are less expensive. LCD technology is new, and after a few years they may be available at lower prices and with better features than Plasma TVs. However, in the present scenario, Plasma HDTV has a definite edge over LCD TVs.

Technologies are changing rapidly, but for now, it is still true that for sizes of 40-inch and above, Plasma HDTVs offer a less expensive and a better resolution, while for screen sizes less than 40-inch LCD HDTV is better.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

HDTV with DVI/HDCP

2008-08-05T00:52:00.008-04:00

A HDTV without DVI/HDCP is on the verge of becoming obsolete within a year or two. According to a report by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) the over-the-air signals throughout the US are going to be converted to pure digital formats from January 1, 2007. Hence, a HDTV without DVI/HDCP will be worthless after that.

HDCP - High-Bandwidth Digital Content Protection
HDCP (High-Bandwidth Digital Content Protection) is an important connection that has brought a new wave of high definition entertainment choices for customers. HDCP ensures safe digital connection between superior quality HDTV and set-top-box. It is not only good news for customers, but also for content providers.

Intel Corporation is the developer of HDCP. Currently, it is being made available and preserved by Digital Content Protection LLC. Hence, it becomes necessary for the manufacturers of consumer electronics to get a license to ensure that the copyrights of content delivered via DVI connections are safe. In fact, this is a means to make the manufacturers to dance to the tunes of content providers. In other words, one can say that Hollywood striving to utilize DVI to retrieve control of their content.

DVI - Digital Visual Interface
DVI (Digital Visual Interface) enables a high-speed uncompressed link between a HDTV set and personal computer or any other DVI-based electronic appliance. The biggest advantage of DVI is the uncompressed transmission of high definition video. It is not visible when you receive the high definition programming; it undergoes a transformation from the source, through the set-top box, and to the TV screen.

The good thing about DVI is that only one component cable is needed to transmit the red-blue-green signal and the speed of picture delivery is remarkably greater than the analog component cables. This makes the viewing experience on Plasma TVs, DLP, and LCDs, an enjoyable one.

DVI/HDCP sends image in an uncompressed layout. Hence, it supports real intricate graphic displays and user interfaces that are found in program guides and other features meant for HDTV. The absolute power transmitted through the DVI connection allows the display devices to maintain the picture quality created by content providers and set-top boxes. This gives good viewing experience to the customers.

Always purchase a HDTV with DVI/HDCP
For a worthy investment, it is best to purchase a HDTV or any other consumer electronics appliance (DVR, DVD player, or set-top-box) with either DVI/HDCP, or HDMI/HDCP. Within a year or two, DVI will change to HDMI, which is the next version of DVI. HDMI requires a small size, handy connector and offers a longer range of transmission. It is also capable of transmitting multiple types of video signals. HDMI has immense scope for expansion and is also encouraged by some of the big manufacturers of consumer electronics. Hence, HDMI is here to stay for long. It would not be advisable to purchase a HDTV without either DVI/HDCP or HDMI/HDCP. A TV without either of these technologies will soon become useless and obsolete.

Alas! There are a number of TV dealers, who have still not realized the significance of DVI/HDCP. A slew of new exclusive TVs are launched in the market without DVI/HDCP input.

CRT HDTV with DVI/HDCP
TV sets based on CRT (Cathode Ray Tube) technology can also enjoy the benefit of DDVI/HDCP. This is because CRT HDTVs convert the signal to digital form for transmission. However, CRT HDTV may not get benefit equal to that received by digital HDTVs.

Tips for Buyers
· While buying a new TV that costs more than $1000, ensure that it has DVI/HDCP input.
· Do not buy a fixed pixel TV, i.e., without CRT technology that has a non-standard native resolution. It will not facilitate 1x1 pixel mapping, and getting the best picture quality will become a distant dream. It may seem to be difficult to avoid a fixed pixel TV, as non-standard resolutions have actually multiplied in Plasma TVs, RPTVs, and front projectors. But it is worth the effort to do so.
· TV stores display the picture via component connection. This is of little use to the buyer. It is prudent to take a DVD player with DVI input, along with you, to check out the TV. This also helps to compare television picture quality in different stores.
· HDTV with three DVI inputs is ideal. However, such HDTVs are not available at present, and only a handful of them come with two DVI inputs. They are the ones launched two years back.
· While connecting the appliances to fixed pixel television sets (Plasma, DLP, LCD, LCoS), it is crucial to get a single pixel mapping for the best picture quality.

The world of electronics is changing from analog to digital. Hence, it becomes indispensable to convert the connections between household electronic devices into digital. This renovation is already complete for audio devices. And for visual devices, DVI epitomizes this foreseeable change. Therefore, to keep in pace with the technology, go digital!

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

How To Judge The Picture Quality Of HDTV

2008-08-05T00:52:00.007-04:00

When you are buying a HDTV, picture quality is the most difficult thing to judge. This section offers some important tips which will help you to judge the ‘good’ picture quality of a HDTV.

It is time to head to the electronic store and check out the TV sets. A large store allows you to compare a bunch of sets at the same time. The real problem is all the TV sets might be showing high definition programs, but the chances are high that not all of them might be properly adjusted. Therefore, the pictures you see there might look good, but in fact, they differ from their inherent quality. Your job starts now.

High Brightness Does Not Mean Good Picture Quality
While reviewing the HDTV sets ask for the remote control from the sales person. Press the Menu button in the remote control to bring up a list of options, and select Video or Picture Adjustments. You will find that the contrast is set at 100%, with the same for sharpness. Yes, almost every store sets their television sets at the brightest picture settings. You cannot judge the true picture quality at this setting. Set the sharpness at a low percent that halos disappear from the edges of objects and set contrast in such a way that highlights are no longer out of balance with the rest of the picture. At stores, they also set the color temperature too high. Because of this, whites look bluish. See, if the set has a color-temperature setting, generally called Low or Warm. Use that. Again, most HDTVs have a custom or pro mode. Set the TV at that mode. This will help the picture look more natural. Once you have done all this, you have done almost half of the job.

Amount of Light in the Room
Generally, electronic stores are flooded with light. See if the salesperson can reduce the amount of light shining on the picture. If that is not possible, try to shade the screen if light is shining directly on it.

Use DVDs to Check Picture Quality
That is right. DVDs provide the best picture a television can display. Therefore, bring a few of your favorite DVDs with you, and see if you can use it instead of the TV signal that is normally shown. Playing a couple of your pre-selected “reference” scenes on a number of TVs will give you a quick point of comparison. This will help you judge the true picture quality of your HDTV. If the store shows a negative attitude for using your own discs, it probably does not deserve your business.

Try Out All the Picture Modes
Most of the HDTVs come with numerous picture modes, such as movie, sports, standard and mild. Try all these modes, and see how every mode affects the appearance of the picture.

Check Out Colors
Pay attention to how the primary colors, red, green and blue look on a set. Does grass look natural, or is it too vibrant? Pay particular attention to the red color. See if they are overbearing, or blotchy looking. Check whether red color appears like orange color. These checking would help you to judge the picture quality of your HDTV more precisely.

Stability of Image
Try scenes where the camera moves across a background with plenty of diagonal lines, like stadium bleachers or a row of windows. Is the image stable, or does it break up and lose resolution?

Geometry and Convergence
Look toward the edges of the screen, preferably with graphics or other straight lines. You can try out CNN's crawling ticker. That works great. See if the lines are actually straight. To check convergence, look at the corners with white material, preferably lines again, and see if faint halos of color surround the white.

Picture-In-Picture (PIP)
If you feel it important, see if the set allows you to use picture-in-picture with all kinds of programs. Can you use it with a high-definition signal? Can you use all of the inputs as PIP sources? Answers for these questions would help you to choose the right HDTV set.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

Budget And Pricing

2008-08-05T00:51:00.008-04:00

During the last few years, the price of HDTVs has come down significantly. However, buying a HDTV is still an expensive deal, and you must be prepared for a substantial investment. Buying a right HDTV requires an understanding of your needs and sticking to your budget. It is important that you set a hard price ceiling for yourself, and resolve to stay with it.

Why Is Fixing Your Budget Important?
Different types of HDTVs fall into certain price categories, and their capabilities tend to increase sharply with every thousand dollars up until four thousand. When you choose to go above four thousand dollars, prices increase wildly without any significant return. By fixing a budget for yourself, you can have a clear understanding of what you are looking for, and what you will get.

Include Accessories In Your Budget
While you set a hard-price ceiling for yourself, make sure the price includes all your accessories also such as, stand, cabling etc. Again, if you want to wall mount the HDTV, you must also include the price of hanging-hardware in your budget. Another important consideration could be the cost of getting some kind of HDTV cable or satellite service, as you need to purchase a new receiver box also. You need not buy everything all at once. However, you would certainly like to purchase all the essential things so that you could actually watch something with your initial purchase. Moreover, to enjoy the true effects of a HDTV, you require speakers to produce Dolby digital surround sound. There are various complete audio system packages available in the market in a wide price range. Make a good research before purchasing such an audio system because you can find even some lower-priced systems that are able to produce incredible audio experience with HDTV.

Where Will You Install Your HDTV?
Space is the primary concern before you fix your budget. You must have a clear understanding of how much space is available to you, and where would you install your new HDTV. You cannot buy a 60-inch rear-projection HDTV for a room that is suitable for a 36-inch HDTV. Therefore, depending upon the room size and viewing distance, first you need to make sure what size of HDTV is most suitable for you. Then you can go ahead and fix your budget. If your room size and the viewing distance allow, you can of course look for the bigger ones. Set your budget accordingly.

Choosing the Right HDTV as Per Your Budget
Once, you have a clear idea of what size of HDTV is appropriate for you, selecting a right HDTV mainly becomes the game of price. The following points will help you select the appropriate HDTV that falls within your budget.

For Screen Sizes Smaller Than 40 Inches
If you are looking for an HDTV with screen size up to 36 inches, CRT is the best bang for your buck. In terms of picture quality, every new technology is compared to CRTs. For a 36-inch HDTV CRT is undoubtedly the best choice. The biggest drawback of HDTV based on CRT is its mass and weight. Therefore, if you want something thin and flat, LCD is the ideal HDTV option. They are available in all sizes from as small as 36 inches to 65-inch behemoths. However, LCD TVs give their best performance when their size is smaller than 40 inches. Again, if ambient light is difficult to control in your room, nothing is better than LCD, as it offers bright picture and anti-reflective screens.

For Screen Sizes Above 40 Inches
If you are looking for screen sizes above 40 inches, Plasma Display Panels i.e. PDP is a better option. Plasma TVs are available in as small a size as 42 inches. Because of the intense competition in the market, the price of Plasma TVs has come down significantly. Especially, the price of some 50-inch PDPs is now almost half of what they used to be a few years ago. However, the bigger models are still expensive. The intense competition has also resulted in better picture quality and increased longevity. The 42-inch HD plasmas are also one of the most favorite displays for watching DVD movies.

For Big-screen HDTVs
When it comes to big-screen HDTVs, nothing can beat rear-projection televisions i.e. RPTVs. The available sizes of RPTVs range from 42 inches to 70 inches. No doubt, the viewing angles of Plasma displays are unmatched. However, with proper placement and seating position, you can exceed the image quality of any RPTV.

Compare quality and prices
The fallowing list will help you understand the options available to you as per your budget.

Budget: Less than $300
What will you get
Curved tubes: up to 32 inches
Flat tubes: up to 27 inches
Flat-panel LCD: up to 20 inches

Budget: $300 to $500
What will you get
Curved tubes: up to 36 inches
Flat tubes: up to 32 inches
Flat-panel LCD: up to 20 inches

Budget: $500 to $750
What will you get
Flat tubes: up to 36 inches
Flat-panel LCD: up to 30 inches
CRT rear-projection: up to 46 inches

Budget: $750 to $1,000
What will you get
Wide-screen HDTV tubes: 34 inches
Flat-panel LCD: up to 32 inches
CRT rear-projection: up to 51 inches
DLP rear-projection: 43 inches

Budget: $1,000 to $1,500
What will you get
Flat-panel LCD: up to 37 inches
CRT rear-projection: up to 61 inches
LCD rear-projection: up to 60 inches
DLP rear-projection: up to 56 inches
Plasma: up to 42 inches

Budget: $1,500 to $3,000
What will you get
Flat-panel LCD: up to 42 inches
CRT rear-projection: up to 65 inches
DLP, LCD, LCoS rear-projection: up to 62 inches
Plasma: up to 50 inches

Budget: More than $3,000
What will you get
Flat-panel LCD: up to 42 inches
DLP, LCD, LCoS rear-projection: up to 73 inches
Plasma: up to 65 inches

Hence, before you actually swap your credit card for your new HDTV, make sure you have chosen the best as per your budget.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

HDTV And Dolby Digital Sound System

2008-08-05T00:51:00.007-04:00

HDTV is more popular for its sharper image, but other than the picture quality, what makes watching an HDTV a memorable experience is the Dolby digital sound. However, not all HDTVs come with a built-in sound system. If your HDTV does not have a built-in audio system, you need to connect an independent, external sound system to enhance the viewing pleasure. Unlike the stereo-sound of old televisions, HDTV offers enhanced realism in sound with full frequency response, low noise and exceptional clarity. If you want the full benefits of HDTV, make sure your system has Dolby digital 5.1. Look for the Dolby Surround Sound logo to avoid any confusion.

What is Dolby Digital 5.1 Surround Sound
Dolby Digital 5.1 Surround Sound is a discrete multi-channel digital audio format, and is the official audio standard for HDTV. Dolby Digital 5.1 Surround Sound is different from other Dolby systems. It delivers a separate channel to the Surround-Left and Surround-Right speakers. It also features a Low Frequency Effects channel to drive the subwoofer, which provides the bass.

How does Dolby Digital 5.1 Work
· The left, center and right channels are located in front of you, and provide precise, clear positioning of dialogue.
· The Surround-Left and Surround-Right speakers are located behind you to deliver ambient sounds.
· The subwoofer or effects channel sends an explosive punch during action sequences.

How to Connect and Set Up
You just have to make a single-cable digital connection to your A/V receiver to receive the crystal-clear Dolby Digital sound. If you want to harness the full power of Dolby Digital 5.1 Surround Sound and maximize your HDTV experience, you must have a dedicated audio system comprising at least five speakers, plus a subwoofer for extreme low frequencies, and of course, ample power to drive them all. Place all the speakers at recommended locations to enjoy the optimal surround sound experience from your HDTV.

The Advantages of Dolby Digital 5.1
If you are watching a movie, you can enjoy the full-scale auditory experience that its creators intended, and hear everything from the roar of the crowds to the panting of the athletes when watching live sporting events such as auto racing, football, basketball, baseball, hockey, and soccer. By combining HDTV's wide screen pictures, ultimate clarity, and Dolby Digital 5.1, you get a truly impressive TV viewing experience.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

Warranty For HDTV

2008-08-05T00:50:00.006-04:00

An HDTV set is a personal purchase, so one has to take care. The dealer will put an extended service contract or warranty before you. The buyer may not realize that this is often a principal source of profit to the sales people. Now, it is up to the buyer to decide whether the product is worth the extra bucks in the form of warranty.

Take an extended warranty like an insurance policy. Consider the rewards of it, the things included in the contract, and those that are excluded.

Remember, if something is not in written form in the contract, then that thing does not exist, no matter how many times the salesperson talks about it.

Another important thing to consider is the place of servicing. The contract should include ‘in-home’ words written in it. Do not accept contracts without home service. You might think it is easy to carry the medium size TV set to the service location. It is not actually.

Generally, service contracts offer yearly servicing, which includes only external cleaning and slight tunings. Besides this, it is always risky to service a HDTV set, as there is no definite way to scrutinize the service person’s qualification and skill. Who knows whether he is an expert in HDTV technology or just an amateur?

Read each and every word of the service contract before accepting it. If you do not understand certain terms and conditions, verify them then and there. Doubts may lead to misunderstandings later.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

Accessories For HDTV

2008-08-05T00:50:00.005-04:00

Once you opt for a HDTV after making an informed decision, it is necessary that you buy some essential accessories in order to enjoy a HDTV experience. Once content is received via cable, satellite or an over-the-air broadcast, whether an inbuilt HD tuner is available or the content provider supplies a set-top box, certain accessories are needed to enhance the viewing experience. With the use of the right accessories, HDTV is all that it promises to be, a truly remarkable and breathtaking experience. Some accessories are:

1. AV HDMI-to-DVI Cables: The latest and most recent set-top boxes, DVD players, HDTV’s are all equipped with the advance all digital HDMI connection for video hookups. However, some older versions are equipped with just a DVI jack. AV HDMI-to-DVI converter cables have a DVI plug on one end and a HDMI plug on another end helping to connect a HDMI display to a DVI source or vice versa.

2. Cable HDMI-DVI Adapters: When the content supplier provides a set-top box with the latest HDMI port with a suitable cable but the HDTV has an older DVI Connector, the cable HDMI-DVI Adapter comes in handy to convert the DVI jack to a HDMI version.

3. AV DVI Dual-Link Cables: This cable is suited when the HDTV and DVD player both have DVI jacks. It is also used for DVI-equipped pc monitors and video cards.

4. Cable HDMI cables: If the HDTV, set-top box, DVD player and AV receiver all have HDMI jacks this cable, available in multiple lengths, comes in handy to inter connect all the equipments.

5. AV Component Video Cable: In case the DVD player or the HDTV monitors do not have either a HDMI or a DVI jack. This cable delivers HD signal to older equipment although the connection is analog rather than digital.

6. Digital Video Essentials calibration DVD: This calibrator offers the best combination of reliable test patterns and in-depth information for those who like to improve the picture quality by trying out do-it yourself calibration.

7. DTV1 Outdoor Antenna: An Outdoor antenna yields the best possible reception and this one is especially designed to maximize digital signal strength.

8. ZHDTV1 Silver Sensor Indoor Antenna: This is a stylish, affordable alternate to an outdoor antenna. It can be connected easily to a HD tuner of a HDTV or a set-top box.
9. HDMI Switcher (EXT-HDMI241): When the HDTV monitor has a single input, and it is necessary to connect a DVD player and a Set-top box, this switcher helps toggle between the two HDMI sources.

10. DVI HDTV Switcher (EXT-HDTV-241): When you need to switch between multiple DVI enabled devices this switcher gets the job done.

These are a few of the essential accessories needed to enhance the performance of a HDTV. With all the right accessories, viewing a HDTV will be an unforgettable experience and worth every cent spent on purchasing HDTV Accessories.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

The Future Of HDTV

2008-08-05T00:48:00.015-04:00

HDTV is gaining popularity rapidly, despite the faster implementation of new technologies in HDTV, unresolved issues regarding the copy protection of DTV content and the slow deployment of content distribution. Each brand of HDTV has an amazing line up of newer and more astounding products with astounding features and upgrades.

Latest HDTVs from Leading Companies
Thomson will release two new state-of-art DPL units at 50” costing $3999 and 60” costing $4999. They have light engines with a 6-segment color wheel spinning at 7200rpm. These TV’s have an Ethernet port to connect a home network and inbuilt IE web-browser for internet surfing using a broadband connection.
Toshiba has come out with a very high rated and expensive LCOS HDTV that is fast becoming popular. Philips Cineos line of LCOS HDTV coming out later this year with a single chip are expected to be promising claiming to be noise free and rainbow free too.
Samsung is all set to create a furor with the HLN4365W, the thin-bezel HLN467 and HLN567. It is also trying to keep the customers satisfied offering added features, electronic swap outs, and upgrading existing DLP set owners.
Sony range of CRT HDTV has received some rave reviews from critics.

Entrepreneurs like Mark Cuban figured out that HDTV is a great way to make money as its future has so much potential. He runs the sports driven HDTV network on DirecTV called HDNET. It broadcasts HDTV programming as well as live NHL, baseball games and extreme sports. According to Cuban, the biggest challenge is to find content that is affordable relative to the number of subscribers. The popularity of HDTV and the increase in its sales will have a definite negative impact on those channels that do not broadcast in HDTV format. Cuban expresses his view in a interview with www.AudioRevolution.com, that as more and more sports bars buy HDTV, more customers are lured to buy HDTV and experience its amazing features at the comfort of their homes. Once people experience HDTV they are like addicts, they cannot do without a HDTV of their own. The reason why HDTV is so different from analog TV is its high quality, picture perfect content that has to be experienced to be believed. The popularity of HDTV has got the big advertisers interested in HDTV because of its marketing potential.

Channels like CBS have already figured out the earning potential of HDTV programs and have spent billions of dollars in HDTV content development and programming. If greater quantity of high quality HD content is developed at affordable rates and adequate intellectual property protection and home recording rights are established, the future of HDTV will be one to reckon with. Anticipating a boom in the HDTV industry several producers and filmmakers are busy developing quality HD content. The popularity of HDTV has made several shows broadcast in HD like ‘JAG,’ and ‘Just Shoot Me.’ There are rumors that Discovery is expected to launch a new channel in HDTV format called Discovery HD Theater.

Should the price be more affordable, lots of people will definitely enjoy watching HDTV. Cable and satellite providers should show more interest and invest in HDTV in order for HDTV to really have an impact in the average American home.
Those who have experienced HDTV will buy a HDTV despite the cost as these HDTVs really have to be seen to be believed, so perfect is the display with crystal clear pictures. If HD content is developed faster, distributed at affordable rates, HDTV will definitely be the TV of the future.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

How to Setup Your HDTV

2008-08-05T00:48:00.014-04:00

While buying an HDTV for your home, you must also know what the prerequisites of setting up a new HDTV in your room are. The following detail will help you with the basics of the set up process for your HDTV.

Basic of the Setup process
Following are some of the basic considerations before you finally setup your new HDTV in your room.

Screen Size and Room Size
Match the screen size of your new HDTV set with the size of the room. Make sure that the setup allows you to sit at a comfortable viewing distance. You should be neither too close nor too far from the TV. A comfortable viewing distance is about twice the diagonal screen size, and one and half times if your HDTV is a front projection type. For example, for a 40-inch screen, the comfortable viewing distance is approximately six and a half feet.

Room Lighting
The room light plays a very important role on the viewing quality of your HDTV. Make sure that you have placed your HDTV at a place where in daytime windows do not shine light onto the screen of the TV. Make sure that the reflection of lamps or bulbs do not appear on the TV screen during the night or when the room is illuminated.

Getting To the Source
Monitors and integrated sets are the two varieties of High-definition televisions. Integrated sets come with a built-in HDTV tuner, while monitors require an outbound digital tuner to receive high definition signals. A few years ago, monitors were more common, but the recent trend is favoring integrated sets.

There are three ways to get HDTV signals – via an off-air antenna, an HDTV cable box, or an HDTV satellite receiver.

Off-Air Antennas
Off-air antennas come in indoor and outdoor version, and provide access to local HDTV broadcast. You must know what kind of antenna you require, and where to locate the antenna in relation to your house.

· If you live in a house that is surrounded by taller buildings, you require a medium or large directional antenna on your roof.
· For a multistory house, a smaller multi-directional antenna will do.
· If your apartment building does not allow you to have an outdoor antenna, you have no other option but to use an indoor antenna.

HDTV Cable Boxes and Satellite Receivers
They are special cable boxes and satellite receivers, which have additional connections and features to provide high-def programming. Some new models come with even a hard disk drive, using which you can play and pause live television programs, and record your favorite TV shows.

Integrated Sets and Cablecard Slots
CableCard are as small as a credit card. You can get it from your cable provider. You can connect it directly to the TV, and once connected, you do not need to install an additional cable box to tune in your subscribed premium channels. However, if your cable or satellite service does not catch all of the local HDTV stations, you would have to use an off-air antenna to receive those signals.

Connection between HDTV Tuner and Monitor
There are many options to make the video connection between an HDTV tuner and the monitor.

· You can connect component-video cables from the set-top tuner box to the TV. This is the most common option.
· You can connect the cables to an A/V receiver and then make a component-video connection from the receiver to the TV. If you want to use the receiver to switch between other component-video sources, like your DVD player, this option is a better one.

Note
Make sure that the receiver can handle wider bandwidth of HDTV signals, or you will lose picture detail. Also, make sure your installation hardware such as cables, splitters, and other components such as signal amplifiers can handle the full HDTV bandwidth. The bandwidth of your hardware must be at least 110 MHz.

HDTV Tuner and TV Display Format
After connecting the tuner, you need to set it according to the TV display format. Depending on the native resolution of your set, you can select 720p or 1080i output. If you have a flat panel LCD or a Plasma TV, the native resolution may be different. Make sure that you know what the display format of your HDTV is.

Audio
· For a surround sound audio setup, run either an optical or a coaxial digital audio cable from the cable box or satellite receiver to the A/V receiver.
· If A/V receiver is not available, you can connect the tuner and TV using standard analog stereo inputs and outputs.

Cable and Satellite Installations
Your set-top box will need to be configured and activated, so you may require professional assistance to install that for you. If you have a satellite hook up, you need an 18–20 inch dish to receive HDTV signals. You need a larger, elliptical dish for a direct TV.

The Final Touch
After you are through with all the setup process, you have one more thing to do. You need to run a first-time setup on your HDTV. Use your remote control, select onscreen menus, set audio output options, scan channels, and do some cable tuning. Your HDTV is set and ready for viewing. Happy Viewing!

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

Glossary of Important Terms

2008-08-05T00:40:00.003-04:00

A | B | C | D | E | F | H | I | L | M | N | P | R | S | U | V | Y

A

AC-3: Also known as Dolby Digital, it is a 5.1 channel sound system meant for HDTV. It provides CD-quality digital audio, sub-woofer, low frequency effect and five full bandwidth channels for front left, front right, center, surround left and surround right speakers.

ATSC: Advanced Television Systems Committee that is responsible for developing and establishing Digital-HDTV Standards, as well as all formats of Digital TV.

A/D: This is the analog to digital conversion or converter used at the transmission end of broadcasting.
Addressable Resolution: It is the highest resolution signal that a display device like a monitor or a TV can accept. Although it may receive the resolution signal, the device may not be able to display it.

Analog TV: It is the NTSC standard for traditional television broadcast. Analog signal vary continuously representing fluctuations in color and brightness.

Artifacts: Refer to unwanted visual images caused due to disturbances in transmission or image processing. They are referred to as hanging dots’ or ‘edge crawl’ in analog pictures, and ‘pixelation’ in digital pictures.

Aspect Ratio: It refers to a width of a picture in relation to its height. The 4:3 aspect ratio means the picture is 4 feet wide and 3 feet high. HDTV has a 16:9 aspect ratio.

ATV: A term used to refer to the advances and development of a digital television, now referred to as DTV.

B

Bandwidth: It refers to a range of frequencies to transmit information such as audio or video. The FCC has allocated 6 Mhz for each channel. For a DTV the maximum bit rate possible within a bandwidth is 19.4Mbps, which can accommodate 1 HDTV channel.

Bit Rate: It is used to express the rate at which data is transmitted or processes and measured as bits per second. The higher the bit rates the higher the pictures resolution.

C

Channel: It is the 6MHz section of a broadcasting spectrum allocated for one analog NTSC transmission.
Component (HD) Video Connection: It refers to the output of a HDTV set-top box or the input of a HDTV monitor or receiver.

Composite Video: It includes vertical and horizontal synchronizing Information in an analog encoded video signal. Since brightness and color signal are encoded together, a single connection wire is sufficient such as a RCA cable.

Compression: It refers to the method of electronically reducing the number of bits required to store or transmit data within a specified time or space. MPEG2 is the compression method adopted by DTV.

D

D/A: Refers to the conversion of digital signals to analog signals. A D/A converter is used to convert and decode digital signals to analog signals.

DBS: Digital Broadcasting Satellite refers to digital TV transmission through satellite.

DLP: Digital light processing is based on a Digital Micro-Mirror device {DMD}. It is a chip with microscopic mirrors attached to it. Red, Blue and green light filtered through a colored wheel are directed at the DMD which switches on and off up to 5,000 times a second. The reflected light is directed to a lens and onto a screen, creating an image. HDTV use 3 chips each for red, blue and green colors.

Dolby Digital: Means the same as AC3.

Down Convert: With regards to DTV refers to the conversion of a higher resolution input signal to a lower one. Some DTV receivers can down convert HDTV signals to those that any TV can transmit.

DTCP: Digital Transmission Copy Protection of a HDTV is otherwise referred to as the 5C.

DTLA: Digital Transmission Licensing Administrator is the licensing organization for the 5C DTCP HDTV copy-protection technology.

DTS: Digital Theater Systems sound similar to a Dolby Digital system, used in movie theaters and DVD.

DVI: Digital Visual Interface is a high-bandwidth video connection that carries digitized RGB picture information and can support copy-protection methods.

D-VHS: Digital-Video Home System capable of recording HDTV, manufactured by Mitsubishi and JVC.

DVR: Digital video recorder is a TV recorder and it can record an entire series or programming defined by keywords, genre, or personnel. It offers pause control over ‘live’ broadcasts and is also called personal video recorder (PVR) or hard disk video recorder.

E

EPG: Electronic program guide is an on-screen display of channels and program data.

F

Frequency: It refers to the number of times per second that a signal fluctuates. Television is broadcast in frequencies ranging from 54 MHz to 216 MHz (VHF) and 470 MHz to 806 MHz (UHF).

H

HDTV: High Definition Television has twice the horizontal and vertical resolution of a normal NTSC TV; therefore the picture is twice as clear and sharp. HDTV offers reduced motion artifacts and offers 5.1 independent channels of Dolby Digital Quality.

HDCP: High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection to be used in conjunction with DVI and HDMI connections.

HDMI: High-Definition Multimedia Interface that is like an USB that can transmit uncompressed digital audio and video signals.

HD-DVD: High-definition digital videodisc has several formats including Blu-ray.

I

IEEE 1394 Fire Wire: It is a digital interface that can transport data at 100, 200, or 400 Mbps. It can be used to connect digital television devices together.

Interactive Television: This TV will enable the viewer to interact with the TV programs, combining normal TV viewing with the interactivity of a personal computer.

Interlaced Scanning: Refers to the process of re-assembling a picture from a series of electrical video signals.

I/O: Refers to the input/output or sending information or data signals to and from devices.

ISDN: Integrated Services Digital Network enables transmission of data at high speeds, Basic Rate of 64 Kb/sec up to a Primary Rate of 2 Mbps, using a telephone line.

L

LCD: Liquid Crystal Display television or monitor uses liquid crystals that behave like "shutters" within the television screen. LCD monitors typically only display video signals in a progressive scan format, do not use phosphors and are not susceptible to screen burn.

Line Doubling: It refers to the method of presenting wide screen images on a standard screen television.

Lossy compression: It refers to the reduction of data by discarding data that is not important. Both audio and video for DTV use this method.

Luminance: Refers to the component in video signals providing information about its brightness.

M

Megabyte: Refers to 1000 kb or kilobytes.

Modem: It is used to transform a typical two-level computer signal into a form suitable for transmission over a telephone line and vice versa.

MPEG: It is the Compression standards for moving images advanced by the Motion Pictures Expert Group {MPEG}.

MPEG-2: It is the compression used by the ATSC and DVB standards.

N

NTSC: National Television System Committee standard combines blue, red, and green signals modulated as an AM signal with an FM signal for audio.

P

PAL: Phase Alternate Line is the television broadcast standard in Europe and parts of Asia. PAL signals have 25 frames per second, making them incompatible with NTSC TV.

Pan and Scan: Refers to the method by which an original wide screen picture is cropped to fit a conventional TV, some times resulting in critical loss of details.

Parallel cable: Refers to a multi-conductor cable carrying simultaneous transmission of digital data bits.

Parallel data: Transmission of data bits through a collection of wires called a bus.

Parallel digital: It is a Digital video interface that utilizes twisted pair wiring and 25-pin d connectors to transmit bits of a digital video signal in parallel.

PCM: Pulse code modulation refers to the method by which sounds are reproduced by modulating the playback rate and amplitude of the sampled digital pulses.

Pillar-box: When conventional TV images are made to fit a wide screen causing the picture to display black bars on both the sides of the picture.

Pixel: This is short form of referring to Picture cell or Picture element. HDTV Pixels are virtually square-shaped and fairly smaller.

Progressive Scan: Method by which all, horizontal scan lines are scanned on to the screen at the same time.

Protocol: Set of rules defining exchange of data including items such as timing, format, sequencing, error checking, etc.

PSIP: Program and System Information Protocol enables a DTV receiver to identify program information from a station and use it to create easy-to-recognize electronic program guides for the viewer.

Plasma Display: A Plasma TV display makes use of numerous embedded cells to produce a picture. However, plasma pixel-cells deteriorate over time causing the picture quality to diminish significantly.

R

Resolution: Refers to the measurement of the smallest that is visible in a video image. It is expresses in terms of the number of pixels in an image.

Standard Digital TV Resolutions:
SDTV: 480i - The picture is 704x480 pixels, sent at 60 interlaced frames per second (30 complete frames per second).
NTSC-Analog TV: 480p - The picture is 704x480 pixels, sent at 60 complete frames per second.

HDTV:
720p - The picture is 1280x720 pixels, sent at 60 complete frames per second.
1080i - The picture is 1920x1080 pixels, sent at 60 interlaced frames per second (30 complete frames per second).
1080p - The picture is 1920x1080 pixels, sent at 60 complete frames per second.

Return Loss: Refers to the ratio of the signal power transmitted into a system, to the power reflected or returned.

RGB: Refers to the red, green and blue, the primary colors of television. TV screens have red, green and blue phosphors that are illuminated by red, green and blue guns.

S

SECAM Syst?me Electronique Couleur Avec M?moire (SECAM) is a signal format used in video equipment in France and the former Soviet Union.

Set-top Box: This is also known as a decoder, receiver or tuner. It is a unit that is capable of receiving and decoding DTV broadcasts.

Spectrum: Refers to the range of frequencies available for over-the-air transmission.

SDTV: Standard Definition Television refers to digital transmissions with 480-line resolution, either in interlaced or progressive scanned formats.

S-Video: Separated video is encoded video signal that separates the brightness from color data.

U

UHF: Ultra high frequency refers to the range used by TV channels.

Upconvert:

V

VHF: Very high frequency refers to the range used by some TV channels.

Y

Y/Pb/Pr: Refers to an advanced method for interconnecting decoded video data. It is generally used designation for HDTV component type connections.

Y/U/V or Y/Cr/Cb: Refers to Component" type Digital TV connector/cable. Three wires are used, one wire for "Y"- designates Light or Brightness; one wire is "Cr" - Red; and the last wire is "Cb"- Blue.

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

The Secret Books

Bass Fishing 101: How To Catch The Next Big One

Table Of Contents

Foreword - What Are We Fishing For Again? The Target: (‘Bass’) Defined

Introduction - Knowing And Going Where The Bass Are

The Basics Of Bass Fishing – An Overview

Tools Of The Trade: Tackle, Boats, Accessories, Lures And Baits (All About Plastics, Spinners, Crank And Others- Top-Water And Specialty Lures)

Water, Weather, Timing And Other Environmental Aspect, Facets And Considerations For Bass Fishing

Techniques For Bass Fishing Like A Pro (Worms, Skipping, Ripping, Drift Trolling, Flyrodding)

Mistakes And Secrets Related to Bass Fishing

Styles And Specialty Bass Fishing

Final Thoughts: Summary and Conclusions

References And Other Handy Books On Bass Fishing

APPENDIX I

Untold Secrets You Need To Know Before Purchasing Your HDTV

Introduction

Basics Of HDTV

Types Of HDTV Sets

HDTV Display Systems

HDTV - Key Features And Connectivity Options

LCD HDTV Or Plasma HDTV

HDTV with DVI/HDCP

How To Judge The Picture Quality Of HDTV

Budget And Pricing

HDTV And Dolby Digital Sound System

Warranty For HDTV

Accessories For HDTV

The Future Of HDTV

How to Setup Your HDTV

Glossary of Important Terms